“Cobblestones slick with rain, a narrow passage shrouded in mist…” This is how one might imagine the Chemin Saint-Roch in 1872. The Chemin Saint-Roch, nestled beside the grand Église Saint-Roch, was once a far cry from the charming Parisian lane it is today. Our journey back in time reveals a passage plagued by poor sanitation, a stark contrast to its present state. Imagine open sewers flowing down the center, the stench of wastewater permeating the air. This unpleasant scene, documented in historical accounts, paints a vivid picture of the challenges faced by those who frequented the Chemin Saint-Roch.
The Chemin Saint-Roch began its life in 1741, shortly after the completion of the Église Saint-Roch’s impressive portal. Its name, of course, comes from its proximity to the church. Originally, the passage extended all the way to the Rue d’Argenteuil. Interestingly, due to the incline of the land towards the Butte Saint-Roch, one had to descend several steps to enter the church, unlike today where you ascend a flight of stairs.
The Chemin Saint-Roch wasn’t always a thoroughfare. In 1880, plans were underway to open the passage to traffic, coinciding with the completion of buildings on the Rue des Pyramides and renovations to the church itself. The final touch was the construction of the steps leading to the church’s side entrance. This transformation marked a turning point for the Chemin Saint-Roch, paving the way for its modern incarnation.
A lesser-known fact about Chemin Saint-Roch is its connection to Victor Hugo. In a nearby furnished room along the street, Hugo was discovered with his mistress, Léonie Biard, in 1845. This scandalous incident, though not directly on the Chemin Saint-Roch, adds another layer of intrigue to the area’s history.
Over time, the Chemin Saint-Roch has shed its unsavory past. The once-filthy lane has transformed into a picturesque pathway. The implementation of proper sanitation has erased the unpleasant odors. The Chemin Saint-Roch, now a testament to its own resilience, invites visitors to stroll its length and reflect on its rich and complex history. It reminds us that even the most unassuming places hold captivating stories, waiting to be unearthed.