Is it just a path? The Chemin de l’Eperon is so much more than that. It is steeped in history. The Chemin de l’Eperon is situated near the Fort Saint-Jean. This fort stands proudly at the entrance to Marseille’s old port. It is perched on a rock. That rock is called an éperon which means spur in English.
The Chemin de l’Eperon owes its name to this geographical feature. The Chemin de l’Eperon is intrinsically linked to the history of Marseille. Let’s dive into that history.
Imagine the 6th century BC. Greeks founded Marseille. They settled north of the Vieux Port. Within the ancient ramparts three hills stretched out. They went from southwest to northeast. There was the Saint-Laurent hill. Then there was the hill of the mills. Finally the hill of the Carmes. Fort Saint-Jean and the Église Saint-Laurent now occupy these hills.
Between the 8th and 10th centuries, Marseille suffered raids. They came from Saracens and Greek pirates. The town was ruined. People sought refuge. They built a fortified réduit. It was between the port entrance and Place de Lenche. This fortress was called Château Babon. It was named after a bishop.
The fortress stood atop the hill. That hill is now Église Saint-Laurent. In 884, Saracens ravaged Provence. But they failed to seize Château Babon.
Fast forward to the 12th century. Military orders appeared in Marseille. These included the Templiers and Hospitaliers. They were connected to trade with the East. The Templiers settled where Église des Augustins now stands. The Hospitaliers settled near Fort Saint-Jean.
The Hospitaliers built their commandery. It was near Château Babon’s walls. It is mentioned as early as 1178. In 1202, the Pope granted them burial rights. This caused conflict with Église des Accoules. The commandery had great influence.
In the early 13th century, the Hospitaliers built Église Saint-Jean. It was near Église Saint-Laurent. In the 16th century, it became part of Fort Saint-Jean’s ramparts.
Mid 14th century brought a new building. It was next to the Tour Saint-Jean. Later it was called Palais du Commandeur. Cardinals stayed there during a papal visit.
In the 17th century, it became a grand residence. It housed princes and dignitaries. The Chemin de l’Eperon witnessed these changes.
By the 12th century, port defenses focused on the channel. Ships entered a bay. It was between Pharo and the Saint-Jean-Saint-Laurent hill. A narrow passage led to the port. This passage was between Fort Saint-Jean and Fort Saint-Nicolas. The southern part had rocks.
Tour Maubert stood where Tour du Roi René now stands. A chain stretched between it and the rocks. This blocked enemy ships. In 1423, the city was pillaged. Tour Maubert was ruined.
King René ordered a stronger tower built. It was built from 1447 to 1452. This is the square tower of Fort Saint-Jean. In 1644, the Tour du Fanal was erected. It stood on the western tip of the Saint-Jean promontory.
From 1655 to 1660, Marseille rebelled. Louis XIV punished the city. He built citadelle Saint-Nicolas and Fort Saint-Jean. Fort Saint-Jean’s walls included Tour du Roi René and Tour du Fanal.
The Hospitaliers had to leave. Houses were demolished. Inside the fort were two parts. The southern part had Tour du Roi René. It also had the old commandery. The commandery became housing. The northern part had barracks.
Vauban improved the fort in 1679. He dug a large moat. This separated Fort Saint-Jean from Église Saint-Laurent. During the French Revolution, the fort became a prison.
In the 19th century, the port expanded. A canal connected Vieux Port and Joliette. This made Fort Saint-Jean an island. In 1944, German troops stored explosives. These exploded destroying old buildings.
In 1960, the fort became a historic monument. Today Fort Saint-Jean is part of the MuCEM. The tour du roi René shows the history of the site.
The Chemin de l’Eperon has seen centuries pass. It has seen Greeks, Romans and Kings. It has seen battles and rebirths. As you walk this path remember its rich past. It is more than just a path. It is a journey through time.