Chapelle Saint-François-d’Assise

Did you ever hear of a church built on a former gypsum quarry? Right here, nestled against the hillside below the Place-des-Fêtes housing towers, stands the Chapelle Saint-François-d’Assise. This unique church, tucked between Rue du Général-Brunet and Rue de Mouzaïa, boasts a double-roofed bell tower that watches over a charming neighborhood. This area of small artisan houses and villas sprung up in the late 19th century on abandoned gypsum quarries, much like the nearby Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. The Chapelle Saint-François-d’Assise story begins long before the current structure existed. In 1910, a small chapel dedicated to Notre-Dame-du-Sacré-Cœur served parishioners at 31 Rue du Général-Brunet. As the neighborhood grew, the diocese decided to establish a new parish. In 1913, they purchased land near the existing chapel with a vision for a grander space. Their plan included a church opening onto Rue de Mouzaïa, with a lower chapel accessible from Rue du Général-Brunet. Construction of the Chapelle Saint-François-d’Assise began in 1914 but was interrupted by the First World War. Work resumed in 1919, and the lower chapel, dedicated to Saint-Landry, opened in 1921. Architect Auguste Courcoux, taking over from his deceased brother Paul, completed the upper church between 1924 and 1926. It was dedicated to Saint Francis of Assisi, fulfilling the diocese’s wish to have a church bearing his name in Paris. The design of the Chapelle Saint-François-d’Assise is quite deliberate. The entrance is perpendicular to the nave. This allows the nave to face east, the direction of the rising sun, symbolizing the resurrected Christ. Inside, the bright nave with its concrete-wood ceiling contrasts beautifully with the flat-bottomed choir. This choir features a striking mosaic created in 1930 by the Mauméjean workshop. It depicts Saint Francis receiving the stigmata, Saint Louis, Saint Elizabeth of Hungary, Saint Bonaventure, Saint Clare, the Virgin Mary, and Saint John surrounding the crucified Christ. The inscription “Sancte Francisce ora pro nobis, Pax et Bonum” (Saint Francis, pray for us, Peace and Good) encircles the scene. Charles Bouleau, who designed the choir mosaic, also painted the frescoes on the choir arch in 1945. These frescoes connect scenes from the Gospels with the life of Saint Francis. Above the arch, Christ presents Saint Francis to the faithful, surrounded by symbols of the four Evangelists. Angels carry banners proclaiming the founding virtues of the Franciscan order: Humility, Chastity, Poverty, and Charity. The Chapelle Saint-François-d’Assise art continues to tell the story. The original altar, against the choir wall, features Byzantine-style mosaics with peacocks, early Christian symbols of Resurrection. In 2004, Florent Boissonnet added an altar and ambo made of fused glass, set within a light oak podium. The Chapelle Saint-François-d’Assise stained-glass windows also deserve mention. Near the choir, windows depict the Trinity (north side) and the Canticle of the Creatures (south side). In 2012, windows from a former Parisian chapel were installed in the remaining bays, illustrating scenes from Saint Francis’ life. The Chapelle Saint-François-d’Assise remains a testament to Franciscan simplicity and artistry. It’s a peaceful space that offers a glimpse into the life and values of Saint Francis of Assisi.