“Seeking blessings for newborns?” That’s the whisper I often hear carried on the wind up here at Changangkha Lhakhang. This temple isn’t just old it’s possibly the oldest in Thimphu. Changangkha Lhakhang clings to this ridge like a prayer etched onto the landscape.
Founded either in the 13th or 14th century this temple predates Bhutan’s unification. It wasn’t Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal who built Changangkha Lhakhang. It was Nyima, one of Phajo Drugom Zhigpo’s sons. Phajo Drugom Zhigpo introduced the Drukpa Kagyu tradition of Buddhism to Bhutan. He is revered as an emanation of Avalokiteśvara.
Parents flock to Changangkha Lhakhang seeking blessings. They come for Genyen Domtsangpa’s protection. He is considered the birth deity and protector of children born in Thimphu.
The main object of reverence here is a bronze statue of Avalokiteśvara. It has eleven heads and multiple arms. Some say it’s self-arisen a miracle in metal. Others believe a Newa artisan crafted it.
Changangkha Lhakhang is built along the ridge. The main temple faces a Gönkhang across a small courtyard. The Gönkhang is the temple for protective deities. Monks reside in buildings forming a quadrangle. A wall with prayer wheels encircles the complex.
Inside the main temple is divided. The east side holds sacred images and scriptures. It’s usually closed to the public. The west side is where lamas conduct rituals. Remember proper dress is required.
Across the courtyard is the Gönkhang. It houses Genyen Domtsangpa. The paintings here are the oldest known murals in Bhutan. Only Bhutanese men can enter this temple.
Behind Changangkha Lhakhang paths lead down terraces. Small stupas dot the landscape. The views of Thimphu are panoramic.
A Tshechu festival is held here. Masked dances fill the courtyard. The Kangyur is recited annually. Gomchens from Gogona come to read the ancient Buddhist text.
Changangkha Lhakhang is more than just a temple. It is a guardian of Thimphu’s children. It’s a place where faith and history intertwine. Genyen Domtsangpa watches over this valley. His blessings are sought by those who believe. Remember Changangkha Lhakhang’s story as you continue your journey. It’s a testament to Bhutan’s enduring spirituality.