Built in 1821 the Chafariz do Rio Seco was more than just a fountain. It was a vital part of Lisbon’s life. This elegant structure shared its construction year with the Chafariz da Junqueira. A total of 40527$236 reis were spent on both. The Chafariz do Rio Seco boasted a substantial washing tank. This was forty palms square and two and a half palms high. Imagine the bustle of washerwomen their laughter echoing around the stone.
The source of the water was a nearby quarry. Interestingly the spring feeding the Chafariz do Rio Seco had a peculiar habit. It would dry up completely every June. This would last until the first autumn rains. Then it would burst back to life. However for a few days the water would be murky. It carried along debris. After this short period the water would again become sparkling clear. This crystal-clear state would continue until the next June.
The name Rio Seco itself holds a story. It means Dry River. This refers to the fact that the area once housed a river. This is evident from a 1945 article in the Amigos de Lisboa bulletin. This article mentions a rivulet. This rivulet flowed slowly under a bridge. The bridge connected Belém and Alcântara or Santo Amaro. Over time the river dried up. The name Rio Seco became fitting.
Today a simple piped system replaces this river. Water still flows. It comes from Serra do Monsanto. It travels under the Calçada da Boa-Hora. It then passes through the walls of the Almargem and Diogo de Mendonça Corte-Real quinta. This is also known as the Águias or Condessa da Junqueira quinta. It continues its journey under the Rua da Junqueira and the Cordoaria. Finally it reaches the Tagus River.
So next time you are in Lisbon pause by the Chafariz do Rio Seco. Reflect on its history. Remember the washerwomen the dried-up river. Remember the clear water and the life it sustained. The fountain stands as a quiet testament to a Lisbon long gone yet ever-present in its spirit.