Perched on a hilltop the Centre hospitalier de Perray-Vaucluse seems almost mysterious. Almost intimidating. Its imposing presence is undeniable. Its geographical location adds to the mystique. Nestled on 126 hectares of land its historic entrance reveals only a small part of its grandeur. You can just make out a Haussmannian-style building. You might even spot the clock tower above it if you look closely.
The Centre hospitalier de Perray-Vaucluse’s age and function also contribute to its enigmatic aura. For 150 years it served as a psychiatric asylum for Parisians suffering from mental illnesses. It opened in 1869. This history fuels various fantasies. Popular culture has certainly played a part. The Centre hospitalier de Perray-Vaucluse has frequently been used as a filming location. The American zombie series The Walking Dead even filmed there.
Approaching the Centre hospitalier de Perray-Vaucluse’s main entrance is like stepping back in time. To 1869 when the asylum officially opened under the administration of the now-defunct Department of the Seine. Two memorial plaques under the main building commemorate the two World Wars. Exploring the grounds unveils hidden stories behind numerous buildings some seemingly abandoned. The perfectly symmetrical main courtyard is striking. One side was for men the other for women. At its peak the institution housed 1900 patients.
Building names like Alsace Brittany and Normandy reveal a fascinating detail about the past. The staff were required to live within the hospital grounds. They were only allowed to leave on Sundays every two weeks. Flirting between colleagues was forbidden until 1906. A less whimsical aspect is the institution’s cemetery which is the final resting place of 2000 souls.
The three-hour tour includes many significant buildings. There is a large chapel. It has been repurposed over time as a canteen library X-ray room and even a party hall. Other interesting buildings include a former stable a disused morgue and a massive one-million-liter water tower built in 1935. A short walk leads to a small Norman-style house. Built in 1895 it was intended for wealthier patients at a cost of 5000 to 10000 francs per year. This was much more expensive than the 800 francs for a standard room. The experiment failed. Only three patients stayed for an average of 45 days. They left in a worse condition than they arrived. The highlight of the tour is the Perray-Vaucluse chateau and its sequoia trees. Here the guide shares a final history lesson. One participant recalls the staff Christmas celebrations traditionally held within its walls.
Although the last patients left the now-disused buildings in 2016 the Centre hospitalier de Perray-Vaucluse remains operational. It now houses an EHPAD the Barthélémy-Durand public health establishment and a specialized care facility. For those eager to virtually explore the site before your next visit check out the website of the Amis de Vaucluse association.