Whispers of history echo through the ancient cypress trees. Welcome to the Cemitério dos Ingleses the British Cemetery in Lisbon. This tranquil haven is more than just a graveyard. It’s a living testament to centuries of international relations and cultural exchange.
Established in 1724 the Cemitério dos Ingleses initially known as Inglesinhos was a refuge for Britain’s Protestant community in Lisbon. A 1654 treaty between Oliver Cromwell and King João IV granted the British a plot of land for burying their dead. Before this the deceased were often cast into the sea. Or buried in unconsecrated ground. This was due to the Catholic prohibition of Protestant burials in consecrated cemeteries.
The cemetery’s location is significant. Nestled near the Basílica da Estrela and the Jardim da Estrela its history is intertwined with Lisbon’s own. Initially called Travessa dos Ladrões Thieves Alley its current location on Rua de São Jorge hints at a shadowy past. The Inquisition ordered a wall of cypresses planted around the perimeter. This was to shield the graves of these “heretics” from the eyes of Catholic passersby.
Among the many souls laid to rest here is the famous English writer Henry Fielding. He tragically died during a 1754 trip to Portugal hoping the warmer climate would improve his health. His tomb stands as a poignant reminder of his unfinished journey.
Another notable figure is Prince Christian August of Waldeck. A German military strategist. He served as an advisor to the Portuguese army around 1800 during the Napoleonic Wars. The Portuguese crown commissioned an impressive marble pyramid to mark his grave. This reflects his significant contribution to Portugal’s defense.
The Cemitério dos Ingleses is not solely British. The cemetery reflects a cosmopolitan mix of nationalities. Dutch merchants alongside English sailors and even Boer prisoners of war from the Second Boer War find their final resting places there. The cemetery has a small Jewish section hidden behind a wall. It was used in the first half of the 19th century.
The 1755 Lisbon earthquake caused devastation. Yet the Cemitério dos Ingleses largely survived. This underscores its resilience over centuries of changes. The existing St George’s Chapel is not the original. The first chapel burnt down in 1886. This was replaced in 1889 the building you see today.
Today the Cemitério dos Ingleses stands as a unique monument. It showcases Lisbon’s diverse history. Its tranquil atmosphere and diverse monuments make it a place of profound reflection. Take a moment to appreciate its quiet beauty. Let the whispers of the past linger in your thoughts. Your journey through this peaceful cemetery is not just a visit. It’s a journey through history. It’s a journey into the lives of people from many nations who found their final peace within these walls.