A question for you. Did you know that this seemingly ordinary building behind me, the Caserne des Douanes, holds a history richer than you might imagine? The Caserne des Douanes in Marseille is more than just a former customs building. It is a landmark with a story etched in its walls.
The Caserne des Douanes celebrated its 120th anniversary in September 2019. This institution is in the Belle-de-Mai district of Marseille. It has been a small town within a city.
Imagine the Caserne des Douanes bustling with activity. Generations of customs officers lived and worked here. They shared bathhouses, an infirmary, and even an grocery store. Successes from record seizures mixed with everyday life. Neighbors helped each other with childcare. Parties filled the function room. The Caserne des Douanes offered a space for relaxation with its bar and billiard room.
Though often called the Caserne de la Joliette it is located in the Belle-de-Mai district. Today the Caserne des Douanes still houses hundreds of customs officers and their families both active and retired. The pharmacy, laundry facilities, and refectory are gone. But the nursery school remains now under municipal control.
Built in the early 20th century the Caserne des Douanes offered modern comfort. Over 2,000 residents lived in conditions better than those in surrounding neighborhoods. The current building houses tenants in about 250 apartments. The spirit of camaraderie remains.
Let’s step back to the late 19th century. The Customs Administration acquired this land in 1862. The purchase price more than doubled due to leveling costs. Construction of a retaining wall and fees for architects and lawyers added to the expense. The administration allocated parcels to the city for public roads. For over thirty years they possessed about 24000 square meters of land.
In 1899, the administration considered various options for the site. Negotiations with companies to construct the barracks failed. The cost of the work demanded a large capital investment. The Customs Administration decided to build the barracks for the State.
A law was passed on July 3 1900 to construct the barracks on the acquired land. The construction costs were estimated at 3997342 francs. The project was divided into five lots. These included masonry carpentry ironwork plumbing and painting. Despite some improvements the total cost was less than expected. The final cost was about 128000 francs below the initial estimate.
The Caserne des Douanes covered 24000 square meters. The main idea was to meet all hygiene conditions for collective housing. It aimed to ensure comfort for all residents. The seventeen buildings were separated by spacious courtyards. These buildings allowed air and light to circulate freely. Buildings for married agents were five stories high with cellars. Each was divided into separate houses with apartments of two three and four rooms. Each apartment had a water closet. There were 178 two-room apartments 302 three-room apartments and 75 four-room apartments.
The building for single agents faced the courtyard. It included 48 bedrooms with four beds each. Each floor had storage rooms toilets and washrooms. On the ground floor a large paved terrace led to the kitchen bar canteen and dining rooms. These also included a function room and a billiard room. The east and west sides housed separate bath and shower facilities for each sex.
The southeast building housed the infirmary. It included a common room with 12 beds rooms for observation a kitchen a pharmacy and bathrooms. The building in the opposite corner housed the nursery school. The main entrance faced the Boulevard de Strasbourg. Administrative services occupied the ground floor of the central building. The upper floors housed officer apartments. A comprehensive canal system distributed water. A special tap provided drinking water in each apartment. An ingenious system used the kitchen furnace to heat water for the apartments.
The building also featured a sewage system lightning rods and gas lighting. The main facade includes a high relief sculpture. This sculpture is appropriate to the building’s purpose and Marseille’s role in history. It depicts Neptune and Mercury with ships on the horizon.
The Caserne des Douanes stands as a testament to Marseille’s history. It is a unique example of a customs barracks. It is unmatched in its design and adaptation to the needs of its occupants. It embodies the spirit and history of Marseille. As we move on let the story of the Caserne des Douanes remind us that even seemingly ordinary buildings can hold extraordinary stories.