In 1769, a magnificent palace began to rise on the corner of Isabel la Católica and Venustiano Carranza. This is the Casa de los Condes de San Mateo de Valparaíso. Its story is a captivating blend of wealth, artistry, and historical significance. The Casa de los Condes de San Mateo de Valparaíso stands as a testament to the grandeur of 18th-century Mexico City.
Originally, the land belonged to Alonso Nortes, a recipient of Hernán Cortés’s generosity. It later passed through several hands, eventually reaching Juan Cermeño who built a fortress-like house on the site. The true transformation, however, began with the arrival of Miguel de Berrio y Zaldivar Guerrero y Torres, the Marquis del Jaral, and his wife, the Countess of San Mateo de Valparaíso. They envisioned a palace that reflected their status. They commissioned the renowned architect Francisco Antonio de Guerrero y Torres to bring their vision to life.
Construction of the Casa de los Condes de San Mateo de Valparaíso commenced on December 5, 1769. It was completed on May 9, 1772. The palace showcases the finest elements of Mexican Baroque architecture. Gray chiluca masonry forms the structural core. The facade is adorned with the distinctive tezontle, a volcanic rock common in Mexico City. Colorful Talavera tiles from Puebla add vibrant accents. A corner tower houses an image of the Guadalupana, framed by Solomonic columns.
The Casa de los Condes de San Mateo de Valparaíso boasts unique architectural marvels. A 17-meter arch seemingly floats without support. The internal facades are intricate works of art. The most remarkable feature is the extraordinary double helical staircase, a unique structure in the Americas and the Western world.
The palace served as a residence for over a century. The descendants of the builders occupied it until 1867. It later became the property of Don Clemente Sanz, and then his daughter, Dolores Sanz de Lavié. In 1882, she sold it to the newly founded Mexican National Bank. After a merger, the Banco Nacional de México became the owner. It remains so to this day. The Casa de los Condes de San Mateo de Valparaíso was declared an Artistic Monument in 1932. It opened to the public in 2010, offering a glimpse into its rich history. Today, it houses the Foro Valparaíso Museum. The museum’s 14 galleries display a remarkable collection of Mexican art. It offers a fascinating complement to the city’s major public art museums. The collection features works by iconic artists like Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, and David Alfaro Siqueiros, among others. The Casa de los Condes de San Mateo de Valparaíso stands as a reminder of Mexico’s vibrant past and its enduring artistic spirit.