Café de los Angelitos

Amidst the vibrant energy of Buenos Aires, the Café de los Angelitos beckons with whispers of tango and tales of yore. Here, on the corner of Avenida Rivadavia and Rincón, in the heart of Balvanera, stands a resurrected icon. Café de los Angelitos isn’t just a café; it’s a time capsule. It’s a stage where the ghosts of tango legends still dance. The original Café de los Angelitos opened its doors in 1890 as Bar Rivadavia. Its humble beginnings, with dirt floors and simple furnishings, catered to the working-class residents of Balvanera. It became a gathering place, a melting pot of compadritos, and women affectionately referred to as “negras,” “pardas,” and “chinas.” The air vibrated with the passionate strains of payadas, a popular form of Argentine folk music. Legendary payadores like Gabino Ezeiza and Higinio D. Cazón filled the café with their lyrical battles. This tradition continued until the 1920s, shaping the very soul of Café de los Angelitos. In 1912, a young Carlos Gardel, along with his musical partner José Razzano, chose Café de los Angelitos as their regular haunt. Their table became their “barra,” a place of camaraderie and creative exchange. Their presence infused the café with an aura of tango that lingers to this day. The tango “Cafè de los Angelitos,” composed by Razzano with lyrics by Cátulo Castillo in 1944, immortalized the café’s special place in tango history. The lyrics evoke the café’s vibrant past, “Cafè de los Angelitos! Bar de Gabino y Cazòn!” They transport us back to a time when Gardel’s voice filled the air, and the spirit of tango reigned supreme. In 1920, Ángel Salgueiro purchased the café. He renovated it and rechristened it Café de los Angelitos, adding the iconic angel statues that graced the facade. The cafe became a hub for prominent figures like Osvaldo Pugliese, Aníbal Troilo, Alfredo Palacios, and Juan B. Justo. Even after its closure in 1992 and subsequent demolition, the spirit of Café de los Angelitos refused to fade. Rebuilt and reopened in 2007, the new Café de los Angelitos retains the essence of its predecessor. While the original structure is gone, the memories, the music, and the magic remain. Stepping into Café de los Angelitos is like stepping into a tango embrace. The spirit of Gardel, the echoes of payadas, and the stories of a bygone era swirl around you. It’s a place where tango isn’t just a dance; it’s a way of life.