What if summer embassies whispered secrets? Büyükyere has them. It was once the second grandest place after Tarabya to build a summer embassy. The Spanish and Russians chose this spot. They erected handsome houses and gardens here.
Büyükdere. The Grand Valley. Its name reflects the river that once flowed into the Bosphorus. This area offered an advantage over Tarabya. It backed onto the Belgrade Forest. In the old days, a ride to the forest was easy. You could hire a horse from the shore. Even the sultan enjoyed long rides. He would pause by the great reservoirs built by the Ottomans.
Let’s wander through Büyükyere. Imagine the diplomats of old escaping the Istanbul heat. They sought refuge in their grand summer residences. The Spanish led the way in restoration. The Russians have also begun. From here, the view of Beykoz Bay reveals why they chose this location. Their fleet could moor safely. Today, Büyükyere is home to the Turkish coastguard fleet.
Büyükyere Avenue stretches for 14 kilometers. It starts south of Büyükyere. It runs inland to Şişli. Once, a ferry terminal served Büyükyere. Though restored, it’s no longer in use. A road built on reclaimed land blocks it. Today, buses provide most access along the coast road.
Notice the religious buildings of Büyükyere. There is the Greek Orthodox church. It was built in 1831. Step inside the Latin Catholic Italian church dating back to 1866. Admire the Armenian Catholic church from 1885. Also, the Armenian Apostolic church built in 1886. The Kara Kethüda Mosque is from the 18th century.
Consider the Spanish Summer Embassy. Franciscan friars originally built it. They used a grand Neoclassical style. In 1783, they donated it to the Spanish government. It gave embassy staff an escape from Istanbul’s intense summer heat. The Russian Summer Embassy began as Count Nikolay Ignatyev’s home in 1840.
Look up the hill. Spot the 18th-century yalı. It once belonged to Keçecizade Fuat Paşa. He was a grand vizier to Sultan Abdülaziz. Now, the yalı serves as a hotel.
Don’t miss the Sadberk Hanım Museum in Büyükyere. It’s possibly the best private museum in Turkey. The museum houses diverse collections. These include archaeological artifacts and Turkish-Islamic art. The museum occupies what was once the wooden Azaryan Yalısı. It belonged to an Armenian member of parliament. The Koç family bought it in the 1950s. In 1980, they transformed it into a museum. It housed the collections of Vehbi Koç’s wife, Sadberk Hanım.
Büyükyere. It’s a place where history and culture intertwine. It offers glimpses into Istanbul’s rich past. As you leave, remember the whispers of diplomats. Recall the clip-clop of horses heading to the Belgrade Forest. Picture the summer mansions and the Bosphorus sparkling in the sun. Büyükyere is a valley of grand stories.