How about a stroll down a street that embodies the spirit of Provence? That is Boulevard Provencal. It is more than just a road. Boulevard Provencal is a slice of Marseillais life.
Imagine a wide street lined with soaring plane trees. This is not some rural escape. It is Boulevard Provencal. These trees offer shade and a touch of nature. They stand behind 19th-century buildings. These buildings showcase a mix of Marseillais architecture. Three-window designs and Art Nouveau facades create an eye-pleasing scene. Locals cherish this promenade.
A century ago, the scene was similar. Le Camas was appealing due to its accessibility to the city center by tram. Landowner André Chave founded the neighborhood. He wanted to accommodate Marseille’s growing middle class. The city honored him. They named the central artery after him.
Boulevard Chave has been the nerve center of Le Camas. In recent years, it has become a micro-neighborhood. Real estate agents have dubbed Chave the “place to be”. New arrivals and Marseillais priced out of trendy neighborhoods are moving here. Young families and bobos are scooping up Chave apartments. Restaurateurs, boulangers, and florists are setting up shop.
Thankfully, Chave hasn’t been totally gutted by gentrification. Along the boulevard, old standbys mingle with new storefronts. The 90-year-old Italian épicerie Maison Moutte is still here. It rubs shoulders with La Frida Loca tattoo shop. Men in industry workwear gather for post-work beers outside L’Estaminet. Beerocratie brasserie hums with craft beer lovers. Customers buy cigarettes and watch the OM match at Bar Tabac du Camas. Marseille’s beloved soccer team is celebrated on cool graphic posters at Maison Transversale.
Chave’s classics are still chugging along. Dernier Métro is the neighborhood’s community center. A friend shares that it is the story of the street. His grandparents owned it from 1968 to 1977. His grandmother dressed in heels. His grandfather wore a jacket and tie. The current owners are more casual. They are better suited to the busy pace. Locals flock here for sizable steaks, gratin dauphinois and affordable fare. From morning until night, they fill terrasse tables. They read the local rag La Provence, drinking pastis and catching up with friends.
Down the street, Amandine’s cotton-candy pink storefront feels plucked from the past. It has been open since the 1960s. The pâtisserie has earned a following for its exquisite desserts. Customers come from across the city. They come lately for the buttery kouign annan. Yet, the core clientele is from the neighborhood.
Food tipped Chave’s scales towards trendy. In 2015, the boulevard welcomed Georges. It is an all-day café. It has a culinary focus the neighborhood lacked. A neighbor confirms it was the only bistro here. Its bistronomy menu and sun-soaked sidewalk patio seduced residents. It lured Marseillais from other parts of the city. A waitress shares she sees the same faces each day. Georges is frequented by regulars. Its popularity spawned other restaurateurs to head to Chave.
A year later, Parpaing qui Flotte opened. Owners Jean-Régis and Farah took the plunge into the restaurant world. They noticed an empty space near their atelier. They felt Chave was fertile territory to try something new. Also an all-day café, the colorful spot became known for its craft cocktails. In 2017, a neighborhood couple launched Cuisine de Gagny. They serve their comfort fare in-house.
The restaurants are rounded out by food purveyors. They add to Chave’s village ambiance. On Saturday mornings, locals fill their shopping bags. They buy fresh goods from butchers, fruit stands and wine stores. On Tuesday and Thursday nights, they order wood-fired pizzas from JD’s pizza truck. It is an iconic Marseille tradition. They buy artisan loaves from Mains Libres boulangerie. They buy Corsican cheese from Petit Jean. They buy freshly roasted coffee from Brulerie Moka.
As Chave continues to buzz, businesses are popping up further down the boulevard. Deep Coffee has a pop-up in an old green newsstand. This comingling of classic and contemporary makes Chave appealing. Many newer places are inspired by artisan methods. They have a community spirit. Age is priceless. It can’t be manufactured.
So, take a stroll down Boulevard Provencal. Experience the blend of old and new. Feel the pulse of a neighborhood that is both trendy and timeless. It is a street that captures the true essence of Marseille.