“One of Europe’s great boulevards.” That is how many describe the Cours Mirabeau. It stretches out before us. The Boulevard Mirabeau offers a dash of Parisian Left Bank chic. It has sophistication under the Provence sun.
Originally, this was not just a pretty street. The Cours Mirabeau replaced the city’s south rampart. The municipality expanded in 1649. Archbishop Michel Mazarin planned this expansion.
Mazarin envisioned a grand promenade. It would be for the wealthy bourgeois of his new district. Initially called “le Cours,” the street measured 1,445 feet long. It was 138 feet wide. Architect Jean Lombard assisted Mazarin. Together, they designed a new urban area. It took fifteen years to remove the rampart. The nobility finally had a place for their Sunday strolls.
Look around. See the plane trees. They form a tunnel over the Boulevard Mirabeau. Cafes line the street. Terraces invite you to sit. Mansions display wrought-iron balconies. The name “Mirabeau” was given in 1876.
Honoré Gabriel Riqueti, Comte de Mirabeau earned the honor. He was an early leader in the French Revolution. Mirabeau represented Aix. He was at the Estates General assembly of 1789. He favored liberty. Yet, he secretly supported the Monarchy. When he died in 1791, the nation mourned.
Notice the fountains. The Boulevard Mirabeau features several. The Fountain of the Rotunda stands out. Theophile de Tournadre designed it in 1860. The Fountain of the Nine Cannons dates back to 1651. Laurent Vallon designed it. The Mossy Fountain was built in 1667 by Jacques Fosse. It uses hot water. Moss covers it. A destroyed Fountain of the Seahorses only leaves a mound.
At the east end stands a statue of King Rene. It was restored in 2009. Some mansions have become shops. The street reflects ambivalence. This mirrors Mirabeau’s own Royalist and Revolutionary politics.
The Cours Mirabeau was constructed in 1651. Elm trees lined it originally. The 19th century saw their replacement with plane trees. Initially, nobility frequented the street. They owned many buildings on the south side. They wanted a pleasant route for carriages and pedestrians. Over time, more properties appeared. Businesses like cafes and restaurants moved in.
Café des Deux Garçons is one famous cafe. Artist Paul Cézanne often visited.
Let’s talk about the fountains a bit more. La Rotonde marks the bottom end of the Cours Mirabeau. It is quite ornate. The fountain features two basins. Lions guard the larger basin. Cherubs ride bronze swans in the water. The smaller basin has leopards’ heads. Three female statues top the fountain. They represent Justice, Agriculture, and the Arts. At night, the illuminated fountain becomes spectacular.
The Fountain of Saint Lazarus is also known as the Fountain of the Nine Cannons. Shepherds once brought their sheep here to drink. Laurent Vallon built the present fountain in the 17th century. It exemplifies Louis XV design.
Further along, the Fontaine Moussue dates back to 1734. Moss completely covers it. Its waters have been known for healing for over 2000 years.
At the top of the Cours is a statue of King René. He holds a bunch of Muscat grapes. He first introduced them to Provence.
The hôtels particuliers also deserve attention. The Hôtel Maurel de Pontevès stands at number 38. Pierre Maurel built it in 1647. He was a rich textile merchant. Two caryatids flank the door. Inside is a magnificent staircase.
The Hôtel de Forbin is one of the street’s largest mansions. The Marquis d’Entrecasteaux committed a crime of passion at the Hôtel d’Entrecasteaux.
The Hôtel de Villars boasts a lavish entrance by Georges Vallon. The Hôtel d’Arbaud-Jouques has richly carved doors. Its interior staircase has a wrought-iron handrail.
At number 53 bis, Les Deux Garçons was the oldest brasserie in Aix. Cézanne and Emile Zola frequented it. A fire ravaged the building in 2019. It is currently closed.
At number 55, Cézanne spent his childhood in his father’s hat shop. A plaque marks the spot.
The Cours Mirabeau continues to evolve. It remains a vital part of Aix-en-Provence. Its history and beauty captivate all who stroll along it.