Boulevard Fenouil

In 1860, a vision took root. City planners in Marseille imagined a grand boulevard, connecting the bustling Estaque-Gare to the shimmering Mediterranean. This boulevard would become Boulevard Fenouil. Boulevard Fenouil would serve as a vital artery for the booming tile industry. It would link the tile factories near the train station to the waterfront embarcaderes, where ships waited to transport the precious cargo. The construction of Boulevard Fenouil unfolded over decades, starting in the 1860s and continuing through the early 20th century. The northern section, near the train station, quickly filled with buildings around 1883. Further south, in the Fontaine-des-Tuiles district, development occurred in a more piecemeal fashion. By 1915, more sections of Boulevard Fenouil had taken shape. Later, between 1928 and 1936, the central portion was completed. Tragedy struck in 1945 when bombs rained down on the southernmost part of the boulevard during World War II. The area saw reconstruction between 1957 and 1961. Boulevard Fenouil’s long, straight path cuts a distinctive line through the landscape of L’Estaque. Running north to south, it follows the natural slope of the land from Rue Le-Pelletier down towards the sea. At its southern end, the boulevard curves slightly at Traverse de la Sacomanne. This curve elegantly bypasses a cluster of buildings on the waterfront before finally reaching the shore. The gentle incline of Boulevard Fenouil mirrors the slopes of the former vineyards that once graced these hillsides. Interestingly, the architecture along Boulevard Fenouil reflects a social hierarchy tied to the topography. Grand villas with lush gardens, some originally built as summer homes for the wealthy, stand proudly in the south near the sea. More modest houses and apartment buildings, interspersed with local shops, populate the northern section closer to the train station. A school sits at the junction of these two distinct zones. Even the landscaping changes along Boulevard Fenouil. North of Traverse de Saumaty, the buildings present a uniform facade, neatly aligned in height and plan. South of the traverse, greenery abounds. Garden walls topped with fences and hedges create a verdant streetscape. In 1943, during World War II, about forty houses at the bottom of Boulevard Fenouil were demolished by the German army to build bunkers. Three of these casemates still exist, hidden amongst the private gardens in the reconstructed area.