Boulevard des Belges

Did the roaring lions of Parc de la Tête d’Or ever witness a magician’s duel on Boulevard des Belges? I ask because this grand boulevard, once a humble dirt path called Boulevard du Nord, has seen its share of peculiar events. Boulevard des Belges, stretching from the Quai de Grande Bretagne to Place Jules Ferry, flanks the southern edge of the magnificent Parc de la Tête d’Or. The boulevard tells a tale of two sides. On its northern side, facing the park, stand elegant mansions and luxurious low-rise buildings. These showcase an eclectic mix of architectural styles. You can see everything from Napoleon III and Art Nouveau to 1930s styles and even hints of Le Corbusier. These homes, limited to three stories, are said to belong to Lyon’s wealthiest residents. Often, only their initials grace the door plaques, adding an air of mystery. On the southern side of Boulevard des Belges, taller buildings rise, mostly constructed between 1918 and 1940. Some boast Art Deco facades and ornate bow-windows, creating a striking contrast. In the 19th century, long before these grand structures appeared, Boulevard des Belges housed simple huts and a rather unusual resident. This resident, a famed magician, plied his trade amidst a community of poor people. The boulevard’s transformation began during the Second Empire. It continued well into the 20th century with the addition of these lavish homes and apartments. Boulevard des Belges took its current name in 1916. It stands as a tribute to the resilience of the Belgian army during World War I. This echoes other Lyon street names like Rue d’Anvers and Rue d’Ypres. Tucked away at number 28, the former Musée Guimet housed a fascinating collection of natural history exhibits. It held Egyptian and Asian artifacts, stuffed animals, aquariums, and even a mammoth skeleton. The museum eventually relocated to the Musée des Confluences, leaving behind a piece of Boulevard des Belges’ history. Today, the Consulate General of the Federal Republic of Germany occupies number 33, a beautiful building constructed around 1900. The boulevard also offers modern amenities like two Velo’v stations and access to metro line B, making it a vibrant part of Lyon’s urban fabric. So next time you stroll down Boulevard des Belges, remember the magician in his humble hut, the echoes of war, and the whispers of wealth behind those discreet initials.