“Who was Ferdinand Pierre Agathe Bourdon?” I ask, setting the stage for our stroll. Boulevard Bourdon is named in his honor. This Parisian boulevard in the 4th arrondissement edges the serene Bassin de l’Arsenal.
In 1806, Boulevard Bourdon emerged. It was intended as a quayside for the Bassin de l’Arsenal. Before its construction, a path traced the outer edge of Charles V’s wall.
Let’s rewind to 1806. Napoleon himself decreed its creation. He ordered the extension of Boulevard de la Porte Saint-Antoine. It would stretch to the river. This path crossed the Bastille’s site. It measured 28 meters wide and about 670 meters long. This new boulevard got its name from Colonel Bourdon. He was a hero of the Grande Armée. He died at the Battle of Austerlitz.
Interestingly, Boulevard Bourdon only has odd-numbered addresses on its west side. This is because the Bassin de l’Arsenal runs along its east. No buildings exist on that side. The one-way traffic flows from Place de la Bastille toward the Seine. A protected two-way bike path runs along the Bassin de l’Arsenal.
Now, cast your mind back to October 16, 1852. Louis Bonaparte returned to Paris. He had concluded one of his promotional tours of the Empire. An arch was erected on Boulevard Bourdon. It declared “The Artists of the Hippodrome and Arenas to Napoleon III. Long Live the Emperor!”
Take a look toward number 1. Jacques Hillairet pinpointed this area. The Tour de Billy once stood here. It was a corner tower of Charles V’s wall, demolished in 1538.
Let’s observe the Bastille electric substation. Architect Paul Friésé designed it in 1911. It powered the metro lines. The substation converted high-voltage AC to low-voltage DC. This was necessary for the metro’s operation. The building’s design draws from Rhenish architecture. Its massive form resembles a fortress. The large arched opening once revealed the machine room’s immense switches.
Gustave Flaubert fans, listen closely. It was on a bench here on Boulevard Bourdon that Bouvard and Pécuchet first met. Thus begins Flaubert’s eponymous novel. The opening lines describe a sweltering day. Two men meet on this boulevard.
Today, Boulevard Bourdon provides more than just a passage. Recent renovations have transformed it into a greenway. It has floral sidewalks. There are planters with varied scents. The light-colored pavement reflects the sun. These enhancements provide a refreshing escape from the summer heat. The boulevard boasts over 11,000 plants across 4,770 square meters. Benches, a two-way bike path, and game tables add to the appeal.
By 2024, plans call for a fully pedestrian route. This will connect Place de la Bastille to Boulevard Morland. Boulevard Bourdon has been totally rethought. It adapts to the challenges of climate change.