“Is that a giant thimble out at sea?” a child’s voice piped up. We’re standing here before Bean Rock, or as it’s known in Māori, Te Toka-o-Kapetaua. This seemingly small structure holds over a century of stories, bravely facing the wild Waitematā Harbour. Bean Rock Lighthouse is New Zealand’s only remaining wooden cottage-style lighthouse. It’s also one of the few like it left in the entire world. The rocks themselves hold a tragic Māori tale. They’re named after Kapetaua, an ancestor of the Ngāti Pāoa, who was abandoned here by his brother-in-law. Imagine the isolation, the crashing waves against the rock.
The European name, Bean Rock, came later in 1840. It honors Lieutenant P.C.D. Bean of HMS Herald, who surveyed the harbor after Auckland’s founding. Bean Rock Lighthouse first shone its light on July 24, 1871. The project cost a hefty £3,000 and its design, resembling a beehive, was quite unique. It featured a hexagonal structure with three wooden platforms resting on concrete floors. The roof, made of galvanized iron, extended outwards, creating a wraparound veranda. Inside, there was a living room, a bedroom, storage rooms, and even a seawater-flushed toilet. A 400-gallon tank held precious fresh water for the keepers and their families. They lived right here, amidst the waves, until 1912 when the lighthouse became automated. One keeper, James Anderson, communicated with his family in Devonport using Morse code flashed by torchlight. Can you picture that? A flickering light against the dark, sending messages of love and longing across the water.
The lighthouse originally ran on a kerosene lamp. Later, a cable was laid in 1936, connecting it to the mainland and bringing electricity. By the 1980s, Bean Rock Lighthouse was falling apart. Corroded iron and rotting kauri beams threatened its existence. There was even talk of replacing it with a sculpture. Thankfully, it was saved. Restored in 1985 with new timber legs and concrete foundations, Bean Rock Lighthouse stands strong. In the mid-1990s, it switched to solar power and got a synchronized foghorn. Today, Bean Rock Lighthouse continues to guide ships, a testament to its enduring importance. While we can’t go inside, as it’s a working lighthouse, we can appreciate its steadfast presence from here. It’s more than just a lighthouse. It’s a beacon of history, a symbol of resilience. A reminder of the ingenuity and determination of those who built it, and those who kept its light burning brightly through the years.