Bean Rock

Perched on a rocky reef in Auckland’s bustling Waitematā Harbour, the Bean Rock Lighthouse has witnessed over a century of maritime history. Bean Rock isn’t just a charming landmark. It’s a beacon, a sentinel, a testament to human ingenuity. Built in 1871, Bean Rock Lighthouse is New Zealand’s only remaining wooden cottage lighthouse. It stands proudly, the red dot at the center of a swirling wheel of light. Passengers on ferries to Rangitoto or Waiheke Island often spot its familiar glow. Long before the lighthouse graced this spot, Māori knew the rock as Te Toka-o-Kapetaua, Kapetaua’s Rock. Legend tells of Kapetaua, a Ngāti Pāoa ancestor marooned here by his brother-in-law. Later, the rock was renamed Bean Rock to honor Captain P.C.D. Bean. He helped chart the harbour in 1840. The original Bean Rock Lighthouse ran on kerosene. A live-in keeper meticulously lit the lamp each evening and diligently monitored it throughout the night. Imagine keeper James Anderson, who served from 1909 to 1911. He rowed a small boat back and forth to Devonport to visit his family. His son, Ivan, would ingeniously send him messages in Morse code using a torch from their house. During the long winter hours, James carved intricate birds and fish from paua, mussel, and pearl shells. A recorded interview with Ivan, held in the Auckland Museum library, offers a fascinating glimpse into their lives. Bean Rock’s hexagonal design, inspired by a beehive, is unique. Three wooden platforms sit on concrete floors. A galvanized iron roof extends outwards to create a wraparound veranda. The interior once housed a living room, bedroom, storerooms, a 400-gallon freshwater tank, and even a seawater-flushed toilet. The structure is anchored to the rock by seven cast-iron pillars set in concrete foundations. This innovative concreting method, reportedly a first in the southern hemisphere, was considered ingenious at the time. Automated in 1912, Bean Rock Lighthouse is now solar-powered. It has undergone significant renovations over the years. In 1985, the cottage was carefully removed to replace the rotted kauri legs with durable Australian jarrah. It was then painstakingly winched back into place. Today, Bean Rock continues to guide ships safely through the harbour. Its enduring presence is a reminder of a time when life was simpler, yet the challenges of isolation and the ingenuity of human connection were just as profound. As you gaze upon this historic beacon, remember the stories it holds. They are a small but significant part of the rich tapestry of Auckland’s maritime past.