“Picture this: a classic Kiwi holiday frozen in time.” That’s what awaits you at Bach 38 Museum. This isn’t just any building. It’s a window into New Zealand’s social and architectural history.
Bach 38 stands on Rangitoto Island a significant Auckland landmark. The island also features the Rangitoto Wharf Islington Bay and Beacon End Bach settlements. These settlements emerged in the 1920s and 30s. They included private holiday homes boat sheds and communal spaces. Paths a swimming pool a community hall and tennis courts completed these settlements.
The bach is traditionally the favorite place for New Zealanders to holiday. In Otago and Southland a bach is known as a crib. In South Canterbury they are known as a hut. They were often constructed without permits. Builders used cheap or salvaged materials near beaches rivers or lakes. These baches are intended to be very simple. They possess a unique charm for those in a holiday mood.
Now Bach 38 itself has a special story. Walter Pooley the island’s first caretaker built it in 1927. He also owned the shop and tearooms. The Rangitoto Island Historic Conservation Trust lovingly restored Bach 38. Volunteers and professional builders dedicated four years to the project.
Their hard work earned them an Honorable Mention in the 2008 UNESCO Asia-Pacific Heritage Awards. Today the museum offers a glimpse into bach holidays from the 1930s to the 1960s. Imagine fishing swimming races dances and fancy dress competitions. This was simple living for generations of families.
The Rangitoto Island Historic Conservation Trust formed in 1997. Its mission is to preserve restore and interpret the baches on the island. Bach 38 opened in April 2005. Bach 114 at Islington Bay is nearing completion.
Other projects include Bach 103 Flounder Inn at Gardiners Gap and Bach 52 at Rangitoto Wharf. Conservation plans are written and roofs replaced. The Department of Conservation the Auckland City Council Heritage Division and the New Zealand Historic Places Trust support the Trust.
Before 1925 Islington Bay was isolated. The first jetty was built in 1925. A launch contracted by bach holders serviced the community. A road to Rangitoto Wharf was completed in 1933. This allowed access for provisions and the island caretaker.
Initially there were no public facilities. Socializing happened outdoors or in the baches. The community helped build baches share supplies and participate in informal social activities.
The Trust has begun restoring a mid-1920s bach at Islington Bay. Bach 78 remains largely original. Its lease terms prohibited additions or alterations. The verandah is the only enclosed part. It represents an identifiable Rangitoto bach with its prominent position in the Bay.
Its features reflect the bungalow/cottage style. It has a low ridge roof parallel to the sea. Salvaged materials and improvised techniques were used in construction. Extensive glazing provides sea views.
The Department of Conservation owns the bach since the lease expired in the early 1990s. However they have been unable to do maintenance. The bunkhouse once served as a honey shed for processing the island’s famous pōhutukawa honey. The bach displays 1930s linoleum patterns and other period artifacts.
Rangitoto Island became a Public Domain in 1890. The Corporation of the Borough of Devonport governed it. The first wharf was built in 1897. Also built was a track to the summit. The landing tax was 1d per adult and 1/2d per child.
In 1911 the Domain Board issued campsite leases for 2 pounds per year. Mr. Pooley was appointed caretaker. He applied to build a kiosk and tearooms in 1917. Sites for permanent buildings with approved sanitation followed in 1918. The number of baches increased from 59 in 1927 to 140 in 1937. Prisoners built roads a swimming pool and a hall between 1926 and 1933.
In 1937 no further leases were allowed. Existing leases were granted 20 years in recognition of their care of the Island. Ninety-five leases were issued for 33 years in 1957. Strict conditions prohibited sale exchange rent additions or alterations. Baches were to be removed or demolished upon the lessee’s death. A significant number of baches were demolished in the 1970s and 80s.
Leases for 34 baches were renewed for another 33 years in 1990. There was a moratorium on demolition. The Department of Conservation conducted an architectural and historical study. The three communities were registered as Historic Areas in 1997. The Rangitoto Island Historic Conservation Trust was formed. Auckland City undertook a heritage assessment in 1998.
So as you stand before Bach 38 Museum remember its story. It’s a story of community resourcefulness and the enduring appeal of the Kiwi bach.