“Do what you want, as long as it’s expensive.” That was the bold instruction given to architect Franu00e7ois-Joseph Bu00e9langer. It came from Claude Baudard de Saint-James. He was a wealthy baron. We are standing near Avenue du Parc Saint-James. It is a place with a captivating history.
This avenue owes its existence to the extravagant vision of Claude Baudard de Saint-James. He was the treasurer of the French Navy under Louis XV. Saint-James wanted a garden more opulent than any other. He commissioned Bu00e9langer to create the Folie Saint-James.
The Folie Saint-James quickly became a spectacle. It featured forty-eight fabriques or architectural constructions. These were placed on both sides of what is now Avenue du Parc Saint-James. Tunnels connected the garden. A winding stream flowed through the landscape. Bridges crossed the water.
Imagine kiosks, a Chinese pavilion, temples, and a thatched cottage. Picture an enormous artificial rock formation. It was made of stones from the Forest of Fontainebleau. The rock was forty-three meters long. It was eighteen meters wide. It stood twelve meters high.
Inside this artificial hill, a winding tunnel awaited. It was encrusted with minerals and crystals. Grottoes and a bathing room completed the scene. The bathing room had a vaulted ceiling and divans.
Not everyone appreciated this extravagance. The Scottish gardener Thomas Blaikie found it lacking in taste. He said it had nothing to do with nature or natural beauty.
Saint-James’s financial ruin in 1787 led to the seizure and sale of his possessions. The Folie Saint-James suffered partial destruction in 1895.
In 1922, the Folie Saint-James was classified as a historical monument. New owners restored the property. They transformed part of the park into an Art Deco style garden. A Temple of Love and a Moorish-inspired pool were added. Some original structures were demolished.
Even the famous painter Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec stayed at Folie Saint-James. The Folie had been converted into a nursing home. Dr. Casimir Pinel. He was a specialist in nervous diseases.
Today, the Parc de la Folie Saint-James is a public park. It is a shadow of its former self at only 1.8 hectares. Yet, traces of its magnificent past remain. You can still see the large stone bridge. The antique column stands. The Art Deco Walled Garden and the Temple of Love charm visitors.
The pavilion retains its original features. Cobblestones pave the courtyard. The staircase has a wrought-iron banister. A trompe-l’oeil adorns the vestibule.
As you stroll along Avenue du Parc Saint-James, remember its origins. It was born from a desire for unparalleled luxury. The Folie Saint-James serves as a reminder of a bygone era. It was an era of extravagance and artistic vision.