Until the 17th century the land where Saint-Germain-des-Prés is located was prone to flooding. Little building took place there. It was largely open fields or prés which gave the quarter its name. Imagine those fields stretching out before you. This is Avenue des Prés. We’re standing on a site once brimming with wildflowers and the murmur of the Seine.
Avenue des Prés is part of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. This district’s history is deeply entwined with the Abbey of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Founded in the 6th century by Childebert I the abbey became a major center of scholarship and learning. A village grew up around it. It had about six hundred inhabitants by the 12th century. The modern Rue du Four is the site of the old monastery ovens. The dining hall was located along the modern Rue de l’Abbaye.
The Saint-Germain Fair a bustling medieval marketplace also thrived here. It attracted merchants and vendors from across Europe. The fair’s profits even went to the King. Think of the vibrant chaos. The sounds of bartering the smells of exotic goods the jostling crowds. This fair continued annually until the French Revolution.
The Renaissance saw Margaret of Valois build a palace here. She was the wife of King Henry IV. She became a patroness of literature and arts. The area became a hub of theatrical activity. The Comédie-Française. They were the theatrical troupe in Paris. They moved to this area several times. The first café in Paris opened at the Saint-Germain Fair. It served coffee considered more medication than beverage. It was run by an Armenian named Pascal.
The 19th century brought Haussmann’s renovations. Boulevard Saint-Germain cut through the heart of the neighborhood. It was not completed until 1889. This significantly altered Avenue des Prés and the surrounding streets. Oscar Wilde spent his final days in the area. He died in a small hotel. This hotel is now the luxury hotel L’Hôtel.
The 20th century saw Saint-Germain-des-Prés become a center of existentialism. Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir frequented the cafes here. Jazz clubs filled the cellars. They offered refuge and inspiration. Think of the smoky atmosphere the sounds of bebop the murmur of philosophical debate. This place was home to both intellectual giants and rising musical stars. It still resonates with their legacy. Right here on Avenue des Prés.