Deep within the Calanques National Park lies Aven de Sormiou. This isn’t just any canyon. It’s the largest calanque in the park a breathtaking inlet carved by centuries of relentless waves. Imagine a hidden world nestled within the dramatic landscape of Marseille’s 9th arrondissement.
Aven de Sormiou boasts a rich history. Its sheltered cove has been a haven since prehistoric times. Evidence suggests the Ligurians the Phocaeans and even the Romans once called this stunning location home. The area’s unique water sources two wells dating back to the 14th century sustained a small fishing community for many centuries. The name Sormiou itself is from the Provençal dialect meaning “best source”. The crystal clear water was lifeblood for this community.
Despite its relatively small size it’s not deep enough for large ships. Only smaller boats could navigate the waters of the calanque. Around 1880 fifty or so people mostly fishermen from Mazargues lived here. Today life at Aven de Sormiou is quite different.
In the late 19th century the calanque became a haven for a unique cultural group. The Count and Countess de Ferry purchased the land. They built a luxurious summer home which locals called “the Chateau”. The family also built and rented out 17 cabanons ensuring the original inhabitants could remain. The Countess herself was an avid visitor often writing odes to the beauty of the calanques.
The cabanons of Sormiou represent an unusual way of life. They are still without running water or electricity. Even now many are passed down through generations. In the early 20th century women and children joined the men adding to the unique community life. Even today some things remain unchanged. Weekend fishermen still come to fish and play boules.
Smuggling was once rampant in the area. Customs officials were stationed in one of the longest cabanons to monitor the coastline. This was essential as the hidden coves provided ideal spots for smugglers to hide their goods. The Sormiou station offered a wide view of the sea and land. This location enabled the officials to protect against illegal activity.
Aven de Sormiou isn’t just famous for its past. It also played a crucial role in the history of diving. In 1942 Georges Beuchat Albert Falco and Commandant Cousteau conducted some of the first tank dives here. The location was ideal. The seabed is richly populated with Neptune grass easily visible in the clear waters.
Aven de Sormiou continues to inspire. The area has drawn artists and filmmakers for generations. Jean Claude Izzo mentioned it in his novels and Joseph Inguimberty painted several works here. Movies like Les Temoins and La French were filmed in this stunning place. The beauty of Aven de Sormiou continues to enchant everyone who discovers it.