“Coffee King of Shanghai” resonates here a title earned near this very spot. We are standing before where the 5th Cafeteria bustled with students. Once near 1472 Bubbling Well Road, this place echoed with the dreams of a rising China.
Let me paint you a picture of Shanghai in the 1930s. The 5th Cafeteria wasn’t just a place to eat. It was a symbol of a modernizing China. C.P.C. Coffee House stood here. Chang Pao Cun’s vision had sprung to life here.
Chang Pao Cun a native of Zhejiang province founded Desheng Coffee in 1935. He aimed to bring coffee culture to the Chinese people. His C.P.C Coffee House became a popular spot. The 5th Cafeteria stood near Jing’an Temple now Nanjing West Road and Tongren Road. It sat in the International Settlement. This location was key to its success.
The “Lao Kele” frequented C.P.C. Coffee House. These were Chinese who embraced Western lifestyles. They saw coffee as a symbol of status. Drinking coffee here meant you had taste and class. Chang Pao Cun understood this perfectly. He had studied English. He had worked with foreign businesses. He knew how to cater to this new elite.
Chang Pao Cun’s wife Fang Huiqin was also crucial to the business. She roasted the beans herself. She adjusted the recipes to suit Chinese tastes. Together they built a coffee empire. Newspapers called Chang Pao Cun the “Coffee King”. They claimed C.P.C. Coffee was in 7 out of 10 Shanghai coffee shops.
Imagine this cafeteria filled with students chatting over steaming cups of C.P.C. coffee. They discussed new ideas and debated the future of China. This place represented hope and progress. Even movie stars like Lan’gen Han were involved. He had a coffee shop that Chang Pao Cun took over. C.P.C was more than just a brand. It was an experience.
The Anti-Japanese War brought challenges. Imported coffee bean prices rose. Chang Pao Cun navigated these difficulties skillfully. By 1946 Shanghai had 186 registered cafes. Over 500 venues served coffee. Desheng thrived. Chang Pao Cun invested in banks and factories. He even donated generously to schools.
C.P.C.’s popularity led to imitators. C.Y.J. sold coffee cigarettes. Chang Pao Cun reportedly owned the first Cadillac in Shanghai. Life seemed perfect for the “Coffee King”. Yet trouble was brewing.
After the Communist takeover in 1949 everything changed. Coffee became a symbol of capitalism. Chang Pao Cun was imprisoned for 24 years. His company was nationalized. C.P.C. became “Shanghai Brand”. The 5th Cafeteria transformed into “Shanghai Caf”. Coffee was restricted. Only those with foreign exchange certificates could buy it.
Later “Shanghai Brand” coffee became popular again. It was a wedding gift and a status symbol. Chang Pao Cun returned to Shanghai. He helped develop the coffee industry in Yunnan. His office was destroyed in a fire. He eventually moved to California.
Chang Pao Cun never gave up on his dream. He wanted to start another coffee company in Shanghai. Sadly he passed away in 1992. His wife Fang Huiqin died in 2015. Today their legacy lives on through their son. He runs successful businesses in the United States.
The original C.P.C. Coffee House closed in 2001. The Shanghai Coffee Factory website mentions Desheng but not Chang Pao Cun. Still his story reminds us of Shanghai’s vibrant past. It reminds us of the dreams that once filled this very spot where the 5th Cafeteria stands. A simple cup of coffee can hold a complex history.