In 1924, the Ximen Tower was completed. It has witnessed a century of change in vibrant Shanghai. From bustling markets and bathhouses to quiet, deserted streets, Ximen Tower has seen it all. It’s a place tied to memories, for locals and visitors alike.
The Ximen Tower area was once a hub of activity. Daxing Street, just 245 meters long, housed a department store, restaurants, a theater, and even a public bathhouse converted into a modern “seafood city”. The nearby streets bustled with life, a constant flow of people and commerce. Ximen Tower itself became a gathering spot. Friends met for late-night snacks and drinks along Zhaozhou Road, enjoying street food and the lively atmosphere. This area was the heart of Shanghai, convenient for everyone, regardless of where they lived.
But over time, Ximen Tower and its surrounding area have become quieter. People moved away, businesses closed, and the once-crowded streets emptied. Residents who remained lament the loss of the vibrant street life. A walk down once-familiar streets now evokes a sense of nostalgia and loss. Even visitors notice the change, remarking on how “deserted” the area has become.
Despite the decline, some businesses stubbornly hold on. Kong Yiji, a restaurant on Xueyuan Street, has been serving Jixi cuisine and wine since 1999. The restaurant’s location on a narrow side street, typical of Old Ximen, makes it a hidden gem. The owner, Yang Jinbao, recalls a time when Ximen Tower was a popular destination for driving tests, the streets packed with people and vendors. He remembers the Japanese tourists who would excitedly explore the narrow alleyways, thrilled to experience “authentic Shanghai”. One of those tourists, a photographer named Haibara Shuhei, even took a photo of the area before Kong Yiji’s restaurant was built. The photo, now hanging in the restaurant, shows a flea market where the building now stands.
Kong Yiji has expanded over the years, but the restaurant still retains its original charm. The clatter of dishes, the clinking of glasses, and the murmur of conversations create a cozy and familiar atmosphere. But just outside, the silence of the deserted streets is a stark reminder of how much things have changed.
The Ximen Tower area is undergoing a transformation. Construction projects and demolitions are reshaping the landscape. While some are optimistic about the future, others worry about the loss of the area’s unique character. Ximen Tower stands as a silent witness to this transition, a reminder of the past and a symbol of an uncertain future. Perhaps, in time, it will once again become a bustling center of activity. But for now, it remains a poignant reminder of a bygone era.