Descend with me into a tiny tunnel. This unassuming spot holds a vibrant secret a cartoon comic strip. It’s a depiction of Lisbon’s history by the muralist Nuno Saraiva. We are standing in front of the Mural do cavalo.
Most people come here for the glorious view. Red roofs and cathedrals stretch towards the Tagus River. Mountains rise in the distance. But, take a second to follow the signs for the public toilet. You will discover the Mural do cavalo.
If you’re lucky, you might eavesdrop on a tour guide explaining this piece. If not, let me be your guide to the Mural do cavalo.
The mural starts with the Phoenicians. They founded the city and called it Ulissipo. It continues through the Portuguese Inquisition. The Mural do cavalo depicts the devastating Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1755. It ends nicely with the Carnation Revolution in 1974.
Much has changed in Lisbon since that revolution. It was a coup on April 25, 1974. It overthrew a dictator and restored democracy. This may be why the artist chose to end the Mural do cavalo there. Also, there isn’t much more room left in the tunnel.
One side of the Mural do cavalo has been covered. Sadly, it is now difficult to read.
One of the most transformative figures was Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo. He is better known as the Marquis of Pombal. He was born on May 13, 1699. His name is synonymous with reform and resilience. He is also known for the rebirth of a nation.
One of Pombal’s most remarkable achievements was his decisive response to the devastating Lisbon earthquake of November 1, 1755. The disaster included a massive earthquake and a tsunami. Fires followed leaving much of Lisbon in ruins. Tens of thousands of lives were lost.
Pombal took immediate charge of the situation. His famous directive was simple. “Bury the dead and feed the living.” Under his leadership, the city was quickly cleared of debris. Plans for a modernized Lisbon were implemented. The reconstruction included the creation of the “Pombaline” architectural style. It incorporated some of the world’s first anti-seismic building techniques.
Pombal envisioned a city functional and beautiful. The new downtown Lisbon became a model of urban planning. Wide streets and standardized building designs characterized the new layout. The innovative construction method made buildings more earthquake-resistant.
Pombal implemented sweeping economic reforms. He sought to reduce the country’s dependence on British imports. He did so by fostering local industries. He focused on textiles and wine production.
Pombal understood that education was key to Portugal’s progress. He implemented extensive reforms. These reforms modernized the country’s educational system. He curbed the Church’s influence. He introduced secular education that emphasized science.
Pombal made a bold move. He abolished slavery in mainland Portugal in 1761. This was groundbreaking at a time when the slave trade was a cornerstone of many European economies. Pombal’s legal reforms created a more just society. He abolished discriminatory practices against converted Jews.
Now, as we leave this tiny tunnel, think about Lisbon’s layers. The Mural do cavalo captures its resilience. It reflects its journey through time. It reminds us of the visionaries who shaped this remarkable city.