Perched within Ueno Park stands a silent witness to centuries of change: the Site of Five-storied Pagoda. This pagoda’s story is one of faith, destruction, and surprising preservation. The Site of Five-storied Pagoda’s existence began in 1631 as a dedication to Ueno Toshogu Shrine. Doi Toshikatsu, a high-ranking government official, financed an earlier version.
Initially, the pagoda belonged to a Shinto shrine. That shrine resided within the expansive Kan’eiji Temple grounds. The mingling of Shinto and Buddhist structures was common then. Beliefs and practices were intertwined until the Edo period ended in 1868.
Kan’eiji Temple was once the most significant temple in Edo. It covered all of today’s Ueno Park. Tendai priest Tenkai founded it in 1625. He had the support of Ieyasu, founder of the Tokugawa shogunate.
But the Meiji government sought to modernize Japan. They wanted to institutionalize Shinto as a vehicle for nationalism. In 1868, the government ordered the separation of Buddhist and Shinto institutions. Violence and destruction followed. Many Buddhist buildings and artworks were destroyed. Kan’eiji’s grounds were drastically reduced. The temple was relocated north of Ueno Park.
The Ueno pagoda narrowly escaped destruction. The head priest of Ueno Toshogu declared it the property of Kan’eiji Temple. He claimed it was not part of Toshogu Shrine. This quick thinking saved the structure.
During World War II, the priests of the shrine continued their cooperation. They protected Buddhist statues within the pagoda. After the war, Kan’eiji could not maintain the pagoda. The distance was too great. In 1958, it was donated to the Tokyo city government. It is now part of Ueno Zoo.
The Site of Five-storied Pagoda stands 36 meters tall. It has a five-tiered structure. The roof of the fifth floor is covered in copper sheets. The other roofs feature traditional Japanese ceramic tiles. Buddha, Bhaisajyaguru, Amitabha, and Maitreya statues are enshrined in the first floor’s corners.
Imagine the pagoda in its prime. Picture it towering over the lush woods of Ueno. Feel the weight of Japan’s long history. Consider the blending of Shinto and Buddhist traditions. The Site of Five-storied Pagoda embodies this unique cultural heritage. Today, it stands as a testament to resilience and adaptation. It connects us to a past where faiths intertwined and history unfolded.