A chilling wind whips across the plateau. This is Blackheath. Its name itself whispers a story.
Blackheath high in the Blue Mountains started as a simple resting place. Travelers crossing the daunting Blue Mountains found respite here. That was back in 1831. The arrival of the railway in 1868 dramatically changed Blackheath. The village boomed over the next ten years. At 1065 meters Blackheath is the highest station on the western line. The climate is far cooler than Sydney. Some irreverently call it Bleakheath.
But Blackheath’s story goes further back. Long before European arrival Aboriginal Australians passed through. They sometimes lived in the Blackheath area. Evidence is scarce due to the harsh climate. However Walls Cave holds a secret. A buried fireplace there dates back thousands of years. Another deeper hearth suggests occupation even ten thousand years ago. Indigenous people probably used routes down the western escarpment. They also likely used the eastern cliff via the Horse Track.
The name Blackheath is itself intriguing. Governor Macquarie first called it Hounslow in 1815. He later changed it to Blackheath. He noted its dark wild appearance. Some believe the name comes from the dark green she-oak plants covering the area.
Blackheath’s first building was the Scotch Thistle Inn. Andrew Gardiner a former convict opened it in 1831. It thrived quickly. Yet in 1832 naturalist George Bennett described Blackheath as dismal. A convict stockade came later in 1844. By 1846 Lieutenant Colonel Mundy described a small hamlet. The railway’s arrival didn’t initially bring prosperity. The Scotch Thistle Inn closed in 1869. Blackheath faced ruin and neglect.
Blackheath’s fortunes changed again. The development of walking tracks attracted tourists. The opening of the Williams Track to Govetts Leap in 1899 brought fame. The area’s development continued. Tourism flourished particularly in the 1920s and 30s. Families came by train from Sydney for weekends and holidays. Bus tours became popular bringing in large numbers of visitors.
Blackheath’s history includes ambitious but unrealized projects. Proposals included an Otis lift for Govetts Leap. There were plans to dam Pope’s Glen. A massive 600-bed hotel complex was also proposed. The plans included a tower an ice rink and even carvings of Blaxland Lawson and Wentworth on the cliffs.
Today Blackheath thrives as a tourist destination. Its stunning views spectacular walks and rich history attract many visitors. The annual Rhododendron Festival is a highlight. This is Blackheath a place with a story etched into its very landscape.