“I would rather be buried in Korea than in Westminster Abbey” This poignant inscription on the headstone of Homer Hulbert at Yanghwajin Foreign Missionary Cemetery speaks volumes. It’s a testament to the profound impact these individuals had on Korea’s history. Welcome to Yanghwajin Foreign Missionary Cemetery.
Yanghwajin Foreign Missionary Cemetery holds a special place in Seoul’s history. It’s not just a resting place but a living testament to Korea’s interaction with the West. Established in 1890 after the death of Presbyterian minister John Heron it reflects a unique chapter in Korean history. Foreigners weren’t allowed burial within Seoul proper at that time. So a dedicated space was needed.
The cemetery’s story is intrinsically linked to Dr Horace Newton Allen. He secured the land overlooking the Han River. The name Yanghwajin itself originates from an old ferry crossing nearby. The cemetery’s location offers breathtaking views. It’s a serene space far removed from the bustling city.
Imagine the lives lived by those interred here. Missionaries like Horace Grant Underwood founder of the Seoul YMCA and Yonsei University. Or Ernest Bethell a British journalist and Korean independence activist. Their dedication shaped Korea’s path. The cemetery also houses the remains of Rosetta Sherwood Hall a medical missionary instrumental in founding a school for the deaf and blind.
The Korean War left its mark on the cemetery. Many headstones suffered damage. This visible damage is a stark reminder of a turbulent past. The stylistic difference between the Western-style tombstones and Korean traditions adds to its unique character. The cemetery is a silent witness to changing times.
A controversy surrounded ownership and maintenance for many years. In 1956 the Kyungsung European-American Cemetery Association was granted management rights. But in 1961 President Park Chung Hee decreed that foreigners couldn’t own land. This led to a long period of uncertainty. The city finally designated it a public park in 1965. Later disputes between Seoul Union Church and the Council for the 100th Anniversary of the Korean Church further complicated matters.
Today Yanghwajin Foreign Missionary Cemetery serves as a tranquil memorial park. It’s a place of reflection and a unique window into Korea’s past. It holds at least 376 graves. 118 belong to foreign missionaries and family members. The remaining graves belong to non-missionaries non-military personnel and US military personnel. There are also many unmarked graves.
So as you stroll through Yanghwajin Foreign Missionary Cemetery remember the lives and legacies of those who lie here. Their stories are woven into the fabric of Korea. Their contributions endure. Their quiet resting place provides a profound reflection on history and faith.