Michelangelo, a name synonymous with artistic brilliance, also had a fiery temper. Legend has it, he once became so frustrated with his masterpiece in the Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli that he struck it in anger. This basilica, known in English as Saint Peter in Chains, houses not just a renowned piece of art but also relics of profound religious significance. The church we see today, built in the 5th century, wasn’t the first on this site. It replaced an even older structure to house the chains that bound Saint Peter during his imprisonment in Jerusalem. These chains, a gift from Empress Eudoxia to Pope Leo I, hold a special place in Christian history. It is said that upon comparing these chains to the ones used to bind Peter in Rome’s Mamertine Prison, the two miraculously fused together. You can still see these chains, displayed in a reliquary beneath the main altar. But the basilica is perhaps most famous for Michelangelo’s powerful statue of Moses, part of the tomb of Pope Julius II. It is said that Michelangelo, upon finishing the statue, was so awestruck by its lifelike quality that he demanded Moses speak. In a fit of frustration, he even struck the statue’s knee, leaving a mark visible to this day. While the tale might be apocryphal, it speaks to the power and realism Michelangelo achieved. Interestingly, Moses is depicted with horns. This was not an artistic choice but stemmed from a mistranslation in the Hebrew texts, where “rays of light” were interpreted as “horns”. Saint Peter in Chains, a blend of art and faith, offers a glimpse into the rich tapestry of history and legend woven right here in Rome.
Chiesa di Santa Maria in Monticelli
Is this heaven? Because standing before the Chiesa di Santa Maria in Monticelli, one might feel a touch of the