Alangasi

Why would Catholics dress up as devils in Alangasi? This question might pop into your head as you witness the vibrant traditions of this small rural town near Quito. Alangasi, nestled in the Valley of Los Chillos, is a place where age-old customs battle against the tide of modern times. Alangasi is a community of just under 25,000 inhabitants. It’s a place where skilled artisans weave carrizo reeds, families pass down the art of woodcarving through generations, and self-taught painters capture the beauty of their natural surroundings on canvas. And yes, for three days each year, devout Catholics transform themselves into devils, upholding a tradition over a century and a half old. Just a short 15 km from Quito, a mere 40-minute drive, Alangasi welcomes you with open arms. The community here is known for its vibrancy, solidarity, hard work, and creativity. The watchful eye of the Ilaló volcano keeps guard over this town blessed with a spring-like climate year-round. Alangasi is located southeast of Quito, bordered by Pintag, La Merced, and Conocoto. The parish comprises 32 neighborhoods, spans 44.16 square kilometers, and sits at an altitude of 2,613 meters above sea level. The name Alangasi itself holds a dual meaning. One version attributes it to the Inca Alangos. The other derives from the words “alanga” (a type of fruit) and “shi” (long). During the colonial era, Alangasi served as an important indigenous center. It became part of the first “encomiendas,” land grants given to the soldiers who participated in the Spanish founding of Quito. Near Alangasi stands the Ilaló volcano. Archaeological investigations here have uncovered vestiges from the Paleo-Indian period (11,000 BC), including large pots, vessels, and treated stones. Alangasi is also home to talented artists like Celso Mejia. This skilled sculptor represents the last in a long line of family sculptors and painters within the parish. He began learning his craft at the tender age of five, watching his father and brother mold wood into lifelike religious and secular sculptures. Today, though his hair has turned gray, Celso’s eyes still sparkle with youthful enthusiasm as he continues to carve saints, virgins, Christ figures, animals, and scenes from daily life. Sadly, the demand for his intricate sculptures, each taking one to two months to complete, is dwindling. They are increasingly replaced by cheaper, lower-quality replicas made of resin or stucco. Another Alangasi artist, Ernesto Gualle, abandoned his accounting studies to pursue his true passion: painting. For over 25 years, he has captured the vibrant landscapes, birds in flight, and pulsating Amazonian jungles on his canvases. He feels deeply connected to the artistic legacy of his community and draws inspiration from the peaceful, natural beauty of Alangasi.