Ever wondered where the Mayor of Palermo might reside? It’s not just an office. It is a place steeped in history and art. We are standing before Villa Niscemi. This villa is a testament to Palermo’s rich heritage.
Villa Niscemi started as a simple agricultural estate in the 16th century. It transformed into a lavish noble residence by the 18th century. The Valguarnera family shaped Villa Niscemi’s baroque style. They adorned it with frescoes and artworks.
For about three centuries Villa Niscemi remained the Valguarnera family’s main home. Fulco di Verdura a famous jeweller spent his childhood here. He later designed jewellery for Coco Chanel. Imagine young Fulco rampaging through these gardens. He terrorized gardeners with a goat-pulled cart.
In 1987 the city of Palermo acquired Villa Niscemi. Today it serves as a representing headquarters of the Mayor. But let’s step inside.
Notice the absence of a grand external staircase common in Palermitan villas. Instead we ascend an internal staircase. It leads us to the “Sala delle Armi” or Hall of Arms. But don’t expect weapons here. “Armi” refers to family crests painted on the ceiling.
Look around at the portraits of Sicilian kings each accompanied by their coat of arms. Even characters from “The Leopard” once roamed these halls. Tancredi Falconeri and Angelica Sedara known in reality as Corrado Valguarnera and Maria Favara.
Next we enter the “Sala delle Quattro Stagioni” or Hall of the Four Seasons. Frescoes depict Autumn with the grape harvest Winter with an old man by the fire Spring with flowers and Summer with a torch. On the ceiling is the Immaculate Conception. Some say it represents Mary as the future mother of the Savior.
On the far wall an intriguing fresco shows Carlo Magno bestowing a coat of arms upon the Valguarnera family’s ancestors. Legend claims their lineage dates back to the Carolingian period.
The adjacent room known by many names holds secrets. Is it the Stanza degli Specchi for its mirrors? Or the Sala da Ballo though small? Or even Sala Verde despite lacking green? The ceiling displays the multiplication of loaves and fishes. A painting depicts Charlotte de France daughter of Louis XVI. She is dressed in mourning.
As we continue notice how the ceilings lower and rooms become smaller. We are now entering the private chambers. Here lies the Prince’s bedroom simple yet elegant. Next is the study where the Prince met with his feud’s managers. Finally we arrive at the Princess’s room. It is a “quartino” complete with a bathroom walk-in closet and bedroom.
Villa Niscemi once a private escape is now open to all. Its art its history its very walls whisper tales of Palermo’s past. As we leave take one last look at Villa Niscemi a beautiful home belonging to all Palermitans.