Dominating the Naples skyline, Castel Sant’Elmo is no ordinary castle. It’s a star-shaped fortress, a sentinel standing guard over the city from atop Vomero Hill. Castel Sant’Elmo has witnessed centuries of history, its story woven into the very fabric of Naples. Though its origins are shrouded in the mists of time, the first mention of Castel Sant’Elmo, or Belforte as it was then known, dates back to 1275 during the reign of Charles of Anjou. This wasn’t the grand star fort we see today, but a more modest fortified residence. It was King Robert of Naples who initiated a grand expansion in 1329, employing the renowned architect Tino da Camaino, who also designed the breathtaking Certosa di San Martino just a stone’s throw away. Over the centuries, Castel Sant’Elmo was besieged, conquered, and refortified, changing hands from the Angevins to the Aragonese and finally to the Spanish. It was under the Spanish Viceroy, Don Pedro de Toledo, that the castle underwent its most dramatic transformation. Between 1537 and 1547, it took on the distinctive six-pointed star shape it’s famous for today, a design considered revolutionary at the time. Sadly, tragedy struck in 1587 when a lightning bolt ignited the castle’s munitions depot, causing a devastating explosion. The reconstruction, led by the architect Domenico Fontana, restored the castle to its former glory. From the late 16th century onward, Castel Sant’Elmo served a darker purpose: a prison. Tommaso Campanella, accused of heresy, was imprisoned within these very walls in 1604. Later, during the Neapolitan Revolution of 1799, it held those who dared to dream of a republic, including the likes of Gennaro Serra and Luigia Sanfelice. Today, Castel Sant’Elmo has shrugged off its somber past. It has been beautifully restored and transformed into a cultural hub, hosting art exhibitions and cultural events. But perhaps the most captivating experience awaits you as you ascend to its ramparts. From here, you’ll be greeted with a breathtaking panorama of Naples: the sprawling city, the azure waters of the bay, and the majestic silhouette of Mount Vesuvius in the distance.
Fontana delle Conchiglie
This unassuming fountain, the Fontana delle Conchiglie, holds a secret. It wasn’t always meant to stand alone. Built in 1938