How many stories could these ancient stones of Chapelle Saint-Jean du Désert tell? This chapel stands as a testament to faith and community in Marseille. It has a history stretching back centuries.
Let’s step back in time. Once, the land around Chapelle Saint-Jean du Désert was alive with vineyards. The Greeks cultivated these lands. Later, the area became known as Domaine Sarturan in the late 12th century. By the early 17th century, farms dotted the landscape. Water was plentiful but the people lacked a local church. They had to travel to Saint-Barnabé, Saint-Loup, or the newly built Chapelle Saint-Pierre-aux-Liens, which is now gone.
In 1638, Benoît Monier donated his pine forest. This act allowed for the construction of a chapel. It would honor Saint John the Baptist in the desert. The Chapelle Saint-Jean du Désert was consecrated on June 24, 1668. This day marked the feast of the saint’s birth. A bell tower was added in 1708, and side chapels followed in 1736.
Chapelle Saint-Jean du Désert served its community until the Revolution. After the Concordat of 1801, it became part of the Saint-Pierre parish. Inside, a niche holds a statue of Saint John the Baptist. It was blessed in 1833. Above the main altar is a painting of Saint John the Baptist. This anonymous work dates back to the 18th century. The pulpit features carvings of Eucharistic symbols. These include a paten, chalice, and monstrance. To the right of the entrance, a large wooden Christ serves as a reminder of the 1736 mission.
A small chapel dedicated to Saint Sebastian houses a statue of the Virgin Mary. It was blessed in 1833. Some ex-voto offerings bear witness to graces obtained. These were received through the intercession of Saint John the Baptist. One ex-voto shows a sick man in bed and a woman praying. In the upper left corner, Saint John the Baptist receives the prayer. A vault was built in 1673 in the middle of the chapel. It was made to hold the bodies of benefactors.
Jean-Pierre de Moustiès, a local magistrate, had a country house in the Saint-Jean-du-Désert area. He distinguished himself during the plague of 1720. He bravely organized hospitals. After the plague, he vowed to attend mass every year. This was on the feast day of the Sacred Heart at the Visitation monastery. He also promised to offer a candle. This ceremony, called the Mass of the Vow, now takes place at the Sacré-Cœur basilica. A plaque on the chapel’s facade commemorates Jean-Pierre de Moustiès. Another plaque covers the benefactors’ vault. It recalls his devotion during the devastating plague.
The area around Chapelle Saint-Jean du Désert was also a center for ceramics. Joseph Fabre, a wealthy banker, established a faience factory around 1675. He hired Joseph Clérissy, from Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, to manage it. Clérissy became the first faience maker in Marseille. Two more factories later opened nearby. This made Saint-Jean-du-Désert a ceramics hub until the late 18th century. Many wealthy Marseillais owned property in this area. Writers and poets, like Lantier and Gaston de Flotte, lived here. Famous figures such as Pierre Puget, Frédéric Mistral, and Lamartine visited. Even the Bonapartes passed through.
More recently in March 2022, Chapelle Saint-Jean du Désert became a focal point for solidarity. This was during the start of the war between Russia and Ukraine. It served as a collection point for aid before the city opened its own.
Today, Chapelle Saint-Jean du Désert stands as a reminder of Marseille’s rich past. It is a place of worship, a historical landmark, and a testament to community spirit.