“A bassinette,” mused a traveler, tracing the name Chemin de la Bassinette on their map, “I wonder what stories this path holds?” The Chemin de la Bassinette, a seemingly unassuming pathway, whispers tales of a forgotten railway that once encircled Paris. This very Chemin de la Bassinette sits alongside what was once a bustling section of the Chemin de fer de Petite Ceinture, or Little Belt Railway. Built between 1852 and 1869, the Petite Ceinture served a dual purpose. It facilitated the transport of goods and soldiers along Paris’s fortifications and also offered public transportation.
The Petite Ceinture wasn’t a single entity but comprised three distinct lines. The Ceinture Rive Droite, or Right Bank section, connected Les Batignolles and Ivry. The Ceinture Rive Gauche, on the Left Bank, linked Ivry and Porte d’Auteuil. Finally, the Line of Auteuil, independently operated, connected Les Batignolles and Porte d’Auteuil, primarily serving passengers. The Chemin de la Bassinette likely witnessed the hustle of freight trains, the rumble of passenger cars, and perhaps even the hurried movement of troops. Imagine the steam engines chugging along, their whistles echoing against the city walls, as they carried goods between the bustling freight yards of Belleville-Villette, Charonne, Bercy, Les Gobelins, La Glacière-Gentilly, and Grenelle.
At its peak, around 1900, the Petite Ceinture transported a staggering 39 million passengers annually. Passengers could hop on a train every ten minutes during rush hour. A complete loop around Paris took approximately one hour and a half, later reduced to just over an hour thanks to more powerful locomotives. But the arrival of the Paris Métro in 1900 marked a turning point for the Chemin de la Bassinette and the Petite Ceinture. The faster, more modern metro system gradually drew passengers away. The Petite Ceinture saw its passenger service dwindle. The final passenger train ran on July 22, 1934. Freight transport continued until the 1990s on some sections.
Today, Chemin de la Bassinette offers a glimpse into a bygone era. While the trains are gone, traces of the Petite Ceinture remain. Repurposed stations, old viaducts, and even the occasional stretch of abandoned track serve as quiet reminders. As you stand near the Chemin de la Bassinette, imagine the echoes of the past, a time when the Petite Ceinture was the lifeblood of Parisian transport.