What secrets do the silent stones of Cimetière Saint-Pierre hold? Established in 1863, Cimetière Saint-Pierre is more than just Marseille’s largest cemetery. It’s a sprawling city of the dead, the third largest in France, second only to the Parisian behemoths of Pantin and Thiais. Here, amidst the cypress trees and sculpted angels, lies a captivating tapestry of Marseille’s history. Cimetière Saint-Pierre whispers stories of artists, politicians, sports heroes, and even infamous criminals. Wander through the grand main alley, lined with imposing magnolia trees, and you’ll find elaborate tombs of the 19th-century Marseille bourgeoisie. Look for the breathtaking sculptures by André-Joseph Allar. “L’homme à la harpe” and “Une pleureuse” capture the raw emotion of grief and loss. Nearby, a poignant monument depicts a World War I “poilu” in his uniform. Notice the sculptor Honoré’s signature subtly placed on the right shell casing. Another striking monument along this avenue is that of Camille Olive, a timber merchant. Designed by Pascal Coste, the renowned architect of Marseille’s Palais de la Bourse, this mausoleum is a surprising departure from his typical style. It stands as his only oriental-inspired creation in his hometown. A fascinating blend of Catholic and Islamic decorative elements, the tomb is a testament to Coste’s vision. It’s encircled by a unique frise featuring alternating crosses and cherubic heads, each adorned with a star. The tomb of Clot-Bey, a Marseille doctor who spent much of his career in Egypt, also graces this main alley. His oriental-style chapel tomb reflects his time in the Middle East. It bears the motto “Inter infideles fidelis,” meaning “Faithful among the infidels.” In the southern section of Cimetière Saint-Pierre, find the Barbaroux family monument. A masterpiece by Pierre Travaux, this poignant sculpture depicts religion consoling grief. Travaux, known for his work on the Marseille Palais de Justice, tragically died young and impoverished. The theme of religion offering solace also appears in a bas-relief by R. Bagnasco. The tomb of painter Jules-Justin Claverie, adorned with a Louis Botinelly sculpture of a reclining woman holding a painter’s palette and a laurel branch, is another must-see. Nearby, “La Charité protégeant l’Enfance,” a bronze by Henri-Édouard Lombard, and Auguste Carli’s “L’Envol” offer further artistic contemplation. Seek out the tomb of the famed singer Gaby Deslys, tucked away amongst the pines. A marble column, draped with a floral garland and topped with a Botinelly medallion depicting her profile, marks her final resting place. Two Carli statues stand guard nearby. In the western part of Cimetière Saint-Pierre, visit the Carré 6. This area is a veritable pantheon of prominent Marseille figures from the Second Empire and early Third Republic. At the top of this section rests the tomb of writer and republican activist Alphonse Esquiros. It is a marble column crowned with a bust sculpted by Lucien Chauvet. In the surrounding path, admire Allar’s magnificent high-relief, “L’Âme à Dieu.” Cimetière Saint-Pierre continues to offer glimpses into Marseille’s rich past. Every step reveals another story. Every stone whispers a name, a life lived, a memory preserved.
Rue Callelongue
A hidden paradise at the end of the world. That’s Callelongue. Callelongue isn’t just a street it’s a journey. A