Can you imagine a church in Istanbul that has never been converted into a mosque? That place is Saint Mary of the Mongols. It is also known as Meryem Ana Greek Orthodox Church.
Saint Mary of the Mongols stands as a testament to Byzantine history. It is a beacon of unwavering faith. This Orthodox church has eluded the fate of conversion. It remained a refuge for the Greek community.
Its story starts in the 7th century. Princess Sopatra and her confidante Eustolia built a monastery here. Sopatra was the daughter of Byzantine Emperor Maurikios. The original monastery fell into ruins. This occurred during the Latin Empire period.
In 1261, Byzantine rule was reestablished. Isaac Doukas built a modest monastery on the same grounds. He was the uncle of Michael VIII. Later, Maria Despina Palaiologina transformed this sacred space.
Maria Despina’s life was extraordinary. She became the wife of Abaka Khan. He was a Mongol ruler. After his death in 1281, she returned to Istanbul. She oversaw the reconstruction of the monastery. She reshaped it into the form we see today. People called her “Ktetorissa” which means founder. The church became known as “Mouchliotissa” which means “of the Mongols.”
After the conquest of Istanbul in 1453, Sultan Mehmed II took control. He gave the church to the mother of Christodoulos. Christodoulos was the architect of the Fatih Mosque. Royal patronage continued. Bayezid II transferred ownership to Christodoulos’s nephew. This ensured the church’s survival.
The church has another name. It is Kanlı Kilise or “Bloody Church.” During the battle for Constantinople, desperate battles occurred nearby. This earned Saint Mary of the Mongols this somber name. During the Armenian Genocide, thousands sought refuge here. The church walls witnessed unspeakable horrors.
Today, Saint Mary of the Mongols stands behind an imposing wall. You can visit. Ring the doorbell. An attendant will escort you inside. The church has ancient frescoes and icons. You can see a nativity scene inside a bottle. There is even a slatted icon. It changes its image depending on your viewing angle. Copies of the imperial decree from Fatih Mehmet hang on the wall. This decree originally protected the church.
Underneath the main floor is an underground chamber. It is made of stone. The attendant says it was part of a passage. This passage once connected Saint Mary of the Mongols to Hagia Sofia. Whether that is true, Saint Mary of the Mongols remains “the last Byzantine church.”
Saint Mary of the Mongols is open to visitors. It holds Sunday services. You can find it in the Fener neighborhood. Its history is as colorful as its bright scarlet facade. It is a living piece of Istanbul’s vibrant past.