Maungawhau

“Te Kapua kai a Mataaho,” whispered a voice, “the food bowl of Mataaho.” We stand before Maungawhau, also known as Mount Eden. This isn’t just a hill. It’s a dormant volcano, the highest natural point in Auckland, reaching 196 meters. Maungawhau, meaning “hill of the whau tree,” was once a mighty Māori pā, a fortified village teeming with life. Imagine thousands inhabiting the terraced slopes, cultivating crops, and storing them in pits along the crater rim. These remnants of the past are still visible today as you explore Maungawhau. Unlike other fortified pā, Maungawhau curiously lacks ditch or bank defenses, a mystery that shrouds this ancient citadel. The crater itself, Te Kapua kai a Mataaho, was named after the deity of volcanic activity. This enormous scoria cone actually consists of two overlapping cones. They erupted in quick succession roughly 28,000 years ago. The southern cone, younger and taller, dominates the landscape, its impressive crater measuring 180 meters in diameter and plunging 50 meters deep. Imagine the fiery spectacle as lava flowed from Maungawhau, spreading across the valley. It reached present-day Khyber Pass Road, Newmarket, Balmoral Road, and even Gribblehirst Park in Morningside. Later flows, cooler and thicker, formed the steep rock base that encircles the maunga. From the summit, you can take in breathtaking panoramic views of the city, the harbors, and the network of other maunga. Ascend Maungawhau, but know this journey is on foot. Since 2016, private vehicles have been banned from the summit to honor the maunga’s cultural and historical significance. This pedestrian-only access further underscores Maungawhau’s sacred nature. Today, a specially designed boardwalk winds its way through the remnants of the pā. It protects the fragile t tūāpapa (terraces) and rua (pits) while providing stunning views into the crater and across Auckland. This innovative design, permeable to the elements, minimizes the visual impact and allows the wairua (spirit) and mauri (life essence) of Maungawhau to flourish. If you wish to delve deeper into the history of Maungawhau and the other Tūpuna Maunga, visit the Te Ipu Kōrero o Maungawhau education center. There, interactive exhibits and augmented reality models bring the past to life, leaving you with a profound appreciation for this ancient wonder.