Traverse Sainte-Marie

Slipping through time, imagine Marseille in the 1850s. The old Saint-Marie-Majeure Cathedral, a smaller Romanesque structure, stood where we now stand, near Traverse Sainte-Marie. This area, close to the bustling port, has always been a vital part of the city. Now, picture this: Emperor Napoleon III himself laying the foundation stone for a new, grander cathedral right here, a cathedral we know as La Major. The “Nouvelle Major,” a colossal blend of Byzantine and Roman Revival styles, rose from the remnants of the old. Traverse Sainte-Marie witnessed this transformation. This street, a silent observer, saw the demolition of parts of the old cathedral, leaving only the choir and a single bay of the nave, a poignant reminder of the past known as the “Vieille Major.” The new Cathédrale de la Major, completed in 1896 near Traverse Sainte-Marie, became a symbol of Marseille’s burgeoning power and prosperity. Its sheer size, capable of holding 3,000 people, echoed the city’s ambition. The cathedral’s striped facade, a striking mix of stones, quickly earned it a local nickname, “The Pajamas.” Inside, a symphony of rich materials: Carrera marble, Tunisian onyx, and Venetian mosaics. Traverse Sainte-Marie offers us a glimpse into this layered history. It’s not just a street; it’s a thread connecting the past and the present, a witness to the evolution of this iconic landmark. So, as you stroll along Traverse Sainte-Marie, remember the ghosts of cathedrals past and the enduring presence of La Major, a testament to Marseille’s vibrant history.