“Ever get the feeling you’re stepping back in time?” That is the question that comes to mind as we approach El Laguito. El Laguito is a remarkable place, holding within it echoes of Mexico City’s past and present.
El Laguito, meaning “the small lake,” gets its name from a dried lagoon. This lagoon once connected to the vast Lake Texcoco in pre-Hispanic times. Imagine barges laden with goods navigating these waters, headed for the bustling Tlatelolco market. Bernal Díaz del Castillo, a conquistador, was amazed by the size and variety of goods on offer there. All Aztec markets were outdoors. Vendors would set up their stands each day and dismantle them at day’s end.
During the colonial period, the lagoon slowly vanished. The rest of Lake Texcoco also dried up. Only the name “La Lagunilla” remains. It reminds us of the area’s watery past. The neighborhood of La Lagunilla was built upon this dried lagoon. Originally, the area boasted mansions for the upper classes. Amazingly, many of these mansions still stand today. The area’s strong commercial ties stretch back to the Aztec era. So its evolution into a lower-class neighborhood naturally brought large-scale commerce.
The area became home to an important market. It was located in the plaza of the Santa Catarina Church, founded in 1586. By 1640, it changed from a monastery to a parish church. The current church building dates to 1740. During the colonial period, this market ranked third in importance. El Parián and El Volador were the top two. A cholera outbreak in 1833 spurred wealthier residents to leave. The area became lower class. The plaza stayed crowded, and significant because of its proximity to the Royal Tobacco Factory.
La Lagunilla descends from the “baratillo”. Baratillo means “little cheap one.” These markets specialized in handicrafts, secondhand items, and foodstuffs for the poor. The antiques market evolved from this tradition of secondhand items. El Baratillo, the first market of this type, was in the Zócalo in the 16th century. The viceroy of New Spain banned this type of merchandise from the plaza in 1609. He cited health and public security concerns. These vendors relocated to markets such as Tepito and La Lagunilla. They remain there to this day.
As Mexico City expanded in the late 19th century, the area reorganized into formal neighborhoods. These new colonias included Santa María la Redonda, Guerrero, and Santa María de la Ribera. The La Lagunilla market replaced the Santa Catarina tianguis. It was built on lands near Callejón del Basilisco, Plazuela del Tequiesquite, Callejón de los Papas, and 2a Calle de la Amargura. Miguel Ángel de Quevedo and Ernesto Canseco, built this first market between 1912 and 1913. It featured wooden stalls with roofs. Initially, it sold produce, eggs, and grains. It also had sections for domestic fowl and fish.
During the 20th century, the market absorbed merchants from markets that closed in and near the Zócalo. Merchants came from the closing of the tianguis at the Plazuela del Factor. Today, the House of the Legislative Assembly stands there. Others came from Plaza Villamil, now the Blanquita Theatre. Still others came from the Mercado del Volador, now the Supreme Court. Overcrowding and chaos ensued. By the 1950s, most of the area was impassable to traffic. The government replaced the wooden stalls with new warehouse-type buildings. Architect Pedro Ramírez Vázquez designed these three sections.
Like other traditional public markets in Mexico, La Laguinilla has struggled. It faces competition from chain stores and modern venues. However, it has resisted this competition better than many others. In the late 2000s, the city worked to renovate areas in and around Plaza Garibaldi. This includes some areas around the market, which promotes tourism to the area.
El Laguito offers a glimpse into the rich layers of Mexico City’s history. From its origins as a small lake to its bustling market. It stands as a testament to the city’s enduring spirit of commerce and community. Take a moment to absorb the atmosphere. It’s a place where the past and present intertwine, creating a unique experience.