Yeniköy

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Perhaps Yeniköy’s greatest charm lies in its harmonious blend of cultures. This “new village” on the Bosphorus has a fascinating story to tell.

Yeniköy, known in Greek as Neochorion, sits on the European shores of the Bosphorus. It is nestled between İstinye and Tarabya. Its history stretches back to Byzantine times. Though ruined after the Ottoman conquest, it rose again.

After the conquest, Greeks and Vlach families from Romania repopulated Yeniköy. The Greeks aptly named it Neohori, meaning “new village”. Ottoman officials adopted this name, translating it into Turkish.

By the 18th century, Yeniköy thrived as a Greek maritime trading town. Turks, Armenians, and Jews added to its diverse population. Wealthy non-Muslims built elegant yalı houses along the coast.

However, the 1955 Istanbul pogrom cast a shadow. It diminished Yeniköy’s Greek, Armenian, and Jewish communities. Yet, the Surp Asdvadzadzin Armenian church and the Yeniköy Synagogue still stand as testaments to this diverse past. The Tiferet Yeniköy Synagogue was built in 1870. Abraham Kamondo got permission from Sultan Abdulaziz to build it. Kamondo needed a synagogue close to his house. He wanted to observe Shabbat without difficulty because he had asthma.

Today, Yeniköy is an affluent neighborhood with restaurants and cafes. The yalı houses are among Istanbul’s most expensive properties. Köybaşı Caddesi runs along the Bosphorus shoreline. It is a central artery of Yeniköy.

The suburb boasts exclusive yalı houses. These once belonged to prominent figures of the Ottoman era. Alexander Vallaury designed the small Osman Reis mosque in 1904. It replaced a 17th-century mosque. Vallaury also designed the yalı of Ahmed Afif Pasha. Agatha Christie stayed here in 1933 while writing Murder on the Orient Express.

Yeniköy has several Christian churches. The Greek Orthodox church of Dormition of the Mother of God was built in 1837. Sultan Mahmud II’s personal physician, Stefanos Karatheodori, requested it. His and his son Alexander Karatheodori Pasha’s tombstones are next to the wooden bell tower.

The sea here is remarkably clean. You can hear the currents flow. Swimming is recommended near the Austrian Consulate General. The old Habsburg embassy is nearby.

Yeniköy’s fishing harbor is a hub of activity. You can buy fresh fish from the local shops. In August, fishermen race to catch the first lüfer.

The Alexandrian poet Constantine Cavafy lived here. He stayed in his mother’s parents’ yalı. His bust stands in the garden of the Greek Orthodox church. He penned his poem “Nichori” here in 1885.

Yeniköy offers a glimpse into Istanbul’s layered history. It is a place where different cultures have intersected. It shows how they created a unique identity over time. It is a vibrant and affluent place to be. As you stroll through Yeniköy, remember its past. Consider the people who shaped this charming neighborhood.

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