Is it possible for a single location to be both a bustling metro stop and a window into Parisian history? That’s the duality of the Chemin Latéral des Courtilles. It is more than just a street. It is a portal. Today we are going to explore the many layers of history that make up the story of the Chemin Latéral des Courtilles.
The Chemin Latéral des Courtilles finds its name rooted in history. “Courtille” once meant a small garden. These gardens were near houses.
Once upon a time, the area around the Chemin Latéral des Courtilles was the site of the Courtille Saint-Martin farm. King Henri 1st gifted this land to the Abbey of Saint-Martin des Champs in 1060. By the 13th century, wealthy Parisians built country homes with gardens here. They formed a small hamlet along the road to Romainville.
As Paris grew, the Chemin Latéral des Courtilles transformed. It became a faubourg. This is a suburb outside the city walls. During the Hundred Years’ War, the area shifted to vineyards. These vineyards produced a cheap wine called “guinguet”. Cabarets sprung up. These cabarets were free from the taxes within Paris. La Courtille became a place for Parisians to have fun.
The area became a famous place of leisure for Parisians. This was true during the Carnival of Paris. The Wall of the Farmers-General divided La Courtille. The Basse Courtille was inside the city and subject to taxes. The Haute Courtille was exempt from taxes. Guinguettes thrived there after 1789.
The guinguettes were full of drinking, eating, and amusement. Most importantly, they were free from the octroi. The octroi was a city tax collected at Paris’s entrances. People also sang and danced at La Courtille.
The Chemin Latéral des Courtilles holds memories of the Descent de la Courtille. This was an important event during the Carnival of Paris. It occurred every year on the morning of Ash Wednesday from 1822 to about 1860.
However, the Chemin Latéral des Courtilles’s golden age waned as Paris expanded. In 1860, Paris’s borders moved beyond La Courtille. The octroi shifted too. The pleasure establishments of La Courtille had to pay taxes. This led to their decline.
Today, a cluster of residential buildings near the Ménilmontant metro station is named “Les Courtilles”. It pays homage to the area’s historical name.
Now, the Chemin Latéral des Courtilles is more than just a memory. It is a modern metro station. The Les Courtilles station is located on the border of Asnières-sur-Seine and Gennevilliers. It is the terminus of Line 13’s northwestern branch. The station opened on June 14, 2008. In November 2012, Tramway Line 1 extended to Les Courtilles.
So as we stand here at Chemin Latéral des Courtilles, let’s appreciate the rich history. From royal gifts to vineyards, from cabarets to metro stations, the Chemin Latéral des Courtilles has seen it all.