Perhaps unexpectedly, Largo D. João, Príncipe de Cândia offers more than meets the eye. It is more than just a garden. It has a deep history. This square connects Rua Professora Virgínia Rau. It also meets Rua Professor Hernâni Cidade. Rua Professor Luís Reis Santos joins it too.
Largo D. João, Príncipe de Cândia, is named for a historical figure. Dom João Príncipe de Cândia founded Convento de Nossa Senhora das Portas do Céu. He lived from 1578 to 1642. The Largo’s dedication happened on July 25 2001.
But who was Dom João? He arrived in Lisbon around 1610 with another prince. Dom Francisco da Gama received them. Dom João refused to study in Coimbra. He wanted to live in Lisbon. He demanded royal treatment.
Dom João felt entitled to the kingdom of Kandy. He also wanted Vellasa and the Seven Kôdrês. These belonged to him by inheritance. He renounced his rights and took Franciscan vows. In return, he received a royal grant. It was 4000 cruzados per year. Later, he received 8000 cruzados annually. He became a grandee.
Despite his vows, Dom João had a daughter. She was named Dona Maria de São João. Her secular name was Dona Maria de Cândia. This referenced her Kandyan ancestry. Dom João also had another daughter. Her name was Simoa Batista.
Dom João lived luxuriously. His house contained tapestries and silverware. He had many servants and slaves. One was his trumpeter. He also had other Lankans in his entourage. One executor of his will was Dom Jaime de Ceilão. Dom João left him a golden necklace.
Dom João founded a Franciscan convent in Telheiras in 1625. He adopted the lifestyle of a noble. He bought properties. He lived with Catholic clerics. A portrait of Dom João existed in the convent. It showed his dark skin. But his face resembled a European’s.
Dom João did what he could to be Iberian. He remained in charge of his foundation. The chapel at Telheiras held his bones. It also held his cousin Dom Filipe’s. An escutcheon showed the Sinhalese lion. It also displayed the sun from his dynasty.
Dom João considered himself the heir to Kandy. He merged his lineage with the Catholic Monarchy. He asserted his dignity as a convert. Dom João’s chapel was dedicated to Our Lady of the Door of Heaven. It was also dedicated to St John the Baptist. Dom João’s was the first church with this name.
The Door of Heaven relates to Genesis. Jacob dreamed of a ladder connecting Earth and Heaven. Dom João asserted his dignity as a Lisbon convert. This door symbolized access to eternal life. All stood in awe before God.
Dom João found a place to erect his monument. It proclaimed open doors to him. He was a converted exile. Exile is ambiguous. It is marked by hope for a new home. It is also marked by hope for returning home.
Today, Largo D. João, Príncipe de Cândia serves as a reminder. It reminds us of a prince. He navigated faith. He was also an exile. He left a lasting mark on Lisbon.