San Francisco Culhuacán

On the western slopes of Cerro de la Estrella, nestled within Mexico City, lies the ancient neighborhood of San Francisco Culhuacán. It’s a place where time seems to fold in on itself, where whispers of Toltec ancestors mingle with the echoes of Aztec conquests and the murmurs of Spanish evangelization. San Francisco Culhuacán, a name that rolls off the tongue like an ancient prayer, holds a special place within the heart of Culhuacán, a larger area steeped in history and tradition. This is one of the eleven barrios of Culhuacán, a name signifying “the place where they have grandparents” or “the place of the ancestors.” And within San Francisco Culhuacán, a vibrant celebration unfolds, a festival dedicated to the Santísima Trinidad where homage is paid to the Señor del Calvario. This festival, held between May and June, draws participants from all eleven barrios and is recognized as one of Mexico City’s most traditional processions. San Francisco Culhuacán’s story begins long before the arrival of the Spanish. Around 715 AD, the Chichimeca Culhuaque people, having merged with the remaining Teotihuacan settlement, established the “tlahtocáyotl,” or lordship, of Culhuacán right here. Their first ruler was Tepilitzin Nauyotzin, and their influence extended to surrounding areas like Xuchimilco and Cuitláhuac. San Francisco Culhuacán played a crucial role in the spread of Toltec culture, acting as a bridge between the fallen city of Teotihuacan and the rising power of Tula Xicocotitlan. This area even witnessed the arrival of Xolotl’s Chichimecas, who sought recognition for their leader. The story of San Francisco Culhuacán is also intertwined with the rise of the Aztecs. They sought refuge here after their expulsion from Chapultepec, only to be banished again years later. The Aztecs, however, retained a connection to Culhuacán. Their first ruler, Acamapichtli, hailed from the Culhuacán royal lineage. The arrival of the Spanish marked another turning point. Allied with forces from Chalco, the Spanish conquistadors brought San Francisco Culhuacán under their control. The community was tasked with contributing to the construction and maintenance of the new Spanish city rising from the ruins of Tenochtitlan. Franciscan missionaries initially led the evangelization efforts, establishing a mission here. They were later succeeded by the Augustinians, who built a grand monastery and church. San Francisco Culhuacán, once a center of indigenous power and ritual, became a focal point of colonial administration and religious conversion. The echoes of this transformation resonate even today.