What secrets does a barren island hold? Pedra Rasa, a name that translates to “Bare Rock,” whispers tales of isolation and resilience. Pedra Rasa stands as a sentinel at the entrance to Guanabara Bay. It’s a small, uninhabited island, about 14 kilometers south of the bay’s entrance and 9 kilometers from Arpoador Rock. This island is more than just a rock. It plays a vital role in the maritime history of Rio de Janeiro.
Pedra Rasa is a harsh, unforgiving landscape. Its 230,000 square meters are covered in sparse vegetation. The island lacks natural freshwater sources, making it inhospitable. The steep, rocky cliffs make landing difficult. There are no welcoming beaches here, only a rugged terrain sculpted by the elements. Despite this, Pedra Rasa has a long history intertwined with human activity.
Before the lighthouse, a lone hermit, perhaps a freed slave, kept a vigil on the island. He would light a bonfire at the highest point, 77 meters above sea level. This simple act provided a crucial navigational aid for ships entering Guanabara Bay. He received a thousand réis a month for his service. His solitary existence marked the beginning of Pedra Rasa’s role as a beacon for sailors.
In 1819, plans were set in motion to build a proper lighthouse. Engineer João de Souza Pacheco Leitão designed the structure, and convict labor was used for its construction. The project faced an unexpected setback. An Argentine corsair seized the island for three years, delaying the lighthouse’s completion. Finally, in 1829, the Ilha Rasa Lighthouse was inaugurated.
The lighthouse, a three-story quadrangular structure topped by a circular lantern room, rises 26 meters high. Its light originally reached 3 leagues (approximately 14 kilometers). It provided a guiding beam for ships navigating the treacherous waters. The lighthouse’s strategic importance extended beyond navigation. The highest point of the island was also used as a military battery. A solitary cannon, a relic of this era, remains on Pedra Rasa. Other cannons succumbed to the relentless storms and were lost to the sea.
Pedra Rasa also holds darker memories. It served as a political prison. José Oiticica, a professor, was imprisoned there during the anarchist insurrection of 1918 and again during the Estado Novo period. Military personnel involved in the 1922 Revolt of the 18 of the Copacabana Fort were also held captive on the island. These stories add another layer to the island’s complex history.
Today, the Ilha Rasa Lighthouse still guides ships. Four Brazilian Navy sub-officials maintain the lighthouse. They rotate every three months, living a life of relative isolation. They have access to cell phones and the internet. They sustain themselves on frozen food and the island’s surprising bounty of fruit trees. Mangoes, coconuts, Surinam cherries, lemons, and persimmons provide a taste of nature’s resilience amidst the barren landscape. Pedra Rasa remains a symbol of endurance. From a hermit’s bonfire to a modern lighthouse, this island has played a crucial role in guiding ships and shaping the history of Rio de Janeiro.