The grandeur of the Parroquia San Felipe de Jesus overwhelms you. Its Neo-Romanesque style is nearly unique in Mexico City. This isn’t just any church. This is the National Expiatory Temple of San Felipe de Jesus. Located on Calle Francisco I Madero it commands attention.
San Felipe de Jesus is more than a name etched in stone. He’s the patron saint of Mexico City. One of the 26 martyrs of Japan he was born Felipe de las Casas in 1572. He had a fascinating life. He joined the Reformed Franciscans left the order then pursued a mercantile career in the Philippines. He later rejoined the Franciscans. He couldn’t be ordained in Manila so he sailed for Mexico on a ship ironically named San Felipe.
In 1596 tragedy struck. The ship ran aground in Japan. The Japanese saw Spanish missionaries as invaders. The entire crew and passengers were arrested in Miako now Kyoto. In early 1597 they were marched to a mountain near Nagasaki bound to crosses and martyred with spears. Felipe’s faith cost him his life. He was beatified in 1627 and canonized in 1862.
The Parroquia San Felipe de Jesus is special. It was built entirely with private funds. No government or church money was used. The land previously held the Chapel of Our Lady of Aranzazu. That chapel was demolished. Emilio Dondé oversaw construction from 1886 to 1897. He also worked on the dome of the Nuestra Señora de Los Ángeles church nearby.
Inside the Parroquia San Felipe de Jesus the Neo-Romanesque exterior is complemented by mostly Neo-Byzantine mosaics. These mosaics are beautiful but not unique. Similar mosaics are prominent in the Porta Coeli Church across the city center. The Parroquia has two side entrances and an independent chapel.
Since 1931 the Roman Catholic Missionaries of the Holy Spirit have managed the church. This Catholic institute was founded in 1914 by French missionary Félix de Jesús Rougier. His remains are interred within the church. His story is intertwined with this sacred space. The Parroquia San Felipe de Jesus is a testament to faith sacrifice and architectural beauty. Its history is rich and moving. A place of profound spiritual significance it remains a pilgrimage site and beacon for the Mexican church.