Qilian Park

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Here, before us lies Qilian Park a serene escape. But did you know its story is intertwined with Shanghai’s tumultuous past? This park offers more than just scenic beauty. It whispers tales of power, betrayal and transformation.

Once upon a time, Qilian Park was Huang’s Garden. Huang Jinrong, the notorious head of Shanghai’s Green Gang, built it as his personal residence. Construction began in 1929 and finished four years later. Imagine Huang strolling through his garden. He was a powerful figure in old Shanghai. He controlled much of the city’s entertainment industry.

Huang’s Garden reflected its owner’s unique taste. He had no formal education. Yet Huang had an eye for design. The park blended classical Chinese garden elements with Western-style features. The Yiting Pavilion is a prime example. Its main structure is Western. But it has a Chinese-style cornice on top. Some might find it odd. But it possesses a strange harmony.

Soon after its completion, the Japanese army invaded Shanghai. Many structures in Huang’s Garden were destroyed including a temple honoring Guan Yu. Despite his criminal activities, Huang refused to collaborate with the Japanese.

Huang had close ties with Chiang Kai-shek. The Sijiao Hall, or Hall of Four Precepts, revealed their friendship. In 1947 Chiang visited Huang on his 80th birthday. Chiang even gave him a formal kowtow. Chiang inscribed “Culture, Behavior, Loyalty and Honest” for the hall.

After the Kuomintang retreated to Taiwan Huang stayed in Shanghai. He smashed Chiang’s inscription to break with the old society. The original inscription was lost. The Hall of Four Precepts became a small museum promoting Pu’er tea.

Huang kept a low profile in his final years. He feared retribution for his past actions. The new city government took his age into account. He expressed regret in a newspaper article. He even swept the road as a sign of remorse.

Huang died in 1953. Four years later Huang’s Garden became a public park. It was renamed Qilian Park. During the Cultural Revolution, the park suffered damage again. Marble sculptures called “Eight Immortals Crossing the Sea” were destroyed. Later “Fu, Lu, Shou: Three Lucky Stars” replaced them.

Today Qilian Park is a place of leisure for locals. Mothers bring their children to enjoy the sun. Musicians play instruments. Elderly people enjoy tea. The park has transformed. The ghost of the past has been wiped clean. Only the osmanthus trees remain as witnesses to the changes. So when you stroll through Qilian Park remember its layered history. It is a reminder of Shanghai’s complex past. It is a testament to change and resilience.

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