“Square Jean Vivan, a hidden gem.” That’s what locals whisper. Actually, it’s Square René Viviani. This delightful green space offers one of the best views of Notre Dame. It is often overlooked. It is usually void of crowds.
Let’s step back in time. The Square René Viviani first opened in 1928. It was named after René Viviani. He was Prime Minister of France during the first year of World War I. Monsieur Viviani was active in protecting the rights of socialists. He also defended trade union workers. He became one of the Socialist Party’s most brilliant orators. He was a prominent leader.
The Square René Viviani is not large. But it provides lush lawns. It features flowers in spring and summer. There are walkways. Inviting benches offer respite for tired feet.
While taking a break, note the leaning Robinia Pseudoacacia. It is a variety of the locust tree. You can’t miss this tree. It is supported by concrete pillars. The tree is the oldest living tree in Paris. It is believed to have been planted around 1601. Jean Robin planted it. He introduced this plant species to Europe in the 1600s. Jean Robin was an herbalist. He worked for King Henri III, King Henri IV and Louis XIII. At one time, the tree was 15 meters tall. A shell during World War I shortened the tree’s height. Fortunately, this trauma did not impact the tree’s vitality. We can continue to marvel at its longevity.
Prominently placed is a sculpture decorated with stags’ heads. Water drops represent aspects of the legend of St. Julien. There are infants too. Some have wings. Others appear lifeless. Under the Vichy government more than 11,000 infants were deported by the Nazis to Auschwitz. They were Jewish. About one hundred of these children lived near this square. This was in the 5th arrondissement. Most guidebooks fail to mention this special memorial component of the sculpture.
The history of the Square René Viviani is unique. It evolves around churches and hospitals. Initially, the square adjoined the 6th-century basilica. It was the Church of St. Julien. The square was used as a cemetery. Then, this parcel of land was built out. It included monastic buildings, dormitories and a refectory. These belonged to the Clunesian priory of St. Julien. The Clunesians focused on encouraging art. They also cared for the poor. The next occupant was one of the annexes of the Hôtel-Dieu. This is the ancient Paris hospital on the nearby Île de la Cité. Hôtel-Dieu was founded by Saint Landry in 651. It was the first hospital in the city.
Before 1909, this plot was occupied by one of the annexes of the Hôtel-Dieu. In earlier times, monastic buildings occupied this site. Earlier still, this place was a cemetery. It was established next to a 6th-century basilica. Some of the relics are now in the Carnavalet Museum.
Here and there on the square, there are odd pieces of carved stone. They are pieces of architectural rubble. They were salvaged from the Cathedral of Notre Dame. During the 19th century, the exterior of the cathedral was partially restored. Many of the most seriously degraded pieces were replaced. The older pieces were eventually deposited here.
Around the corner, in the Rue de la Bûcherie, stands the well-known English-language bookshop. It’s called Shakespeare and Company. Founder George Whitman named it after Sylvia Beach’s former legendary bookshop. It was a literary center for English-speaking writers.
So, as you stand here in Square René Viviani, take a moment. Think about the layers of history beneath your feet. Reflect on the lives that have crossed this space. Remember the oldest tree in Paris. And appreciate the stunning view of Notre Dame. It is a true marvel that there can be so much history in such a small area.