Peeking out from Paraguay 1500 at the corner of Paraná, a legendary tango echoes through the ages. This is La Esquina de Aníbal Troilo. It is more than just a corner. It is a monument to one of Buenos Aires’ most beloved bandoneon players.
La Esquina de Aníbal Troilo stands as a tribute to Aníbal “Pichuco” Troilo. The corner was officially christened in his honor by the city in 1985. Before that, it was known as the Bar del Carmen. Pichuco frequented this spot often.
Imagine Pichuco here. He would sit inside at his favorite table by the window overlooking Paraguay street. He lived nearby at Paraná 838. This was his place to relax, enjoy a whisky escocés with cheddar cheese, and chat with friends. It was a place of inspiration. Some say he even sketched out tango ideas here.
Stepping inside La Esquina de Aníbal Troilo is like stepping back in time. Hundreds of photos adorn the walls of the semi-circular space. They tell stories of tango, of Pichuco, and of Buenos Aires. Two original tables where El Gordo, as he was also known, used to sit are still preserved.
Three plaques on the Paraná street side of La Esquina de Aníbal Troilo pay homage to the “bandoneón mayor of Buenos Aires”. One comes from the Círculo de Amigos de Aníbal Troilo. The others were placed by the Concejo Deliberante and Banco Ciudad in May 1987.
Above the entrance, you will see a famous quote by Pichuco. It captures the essence of Buenos Aires. “My neighborhood was like this, like this, like this. That is to say: what do I know if it was like this. But I remember it like this. Someone once said that I left my neighborhood. When? But when?, if I’m always arriving…”
Today, La Esquina de Aníbal Troilo continues to be a vibrant part of Buenos Aires culture. During the week, it operates as a traditional café. Some find it expensive. Others praise the delicious toast. On weekend evenings, it transforms into a tango restaurant. It features live performances. A bandoneon player will fill the air with music.
The current owner, Leonardo Piperno, is committed to preserving Pichuco’s legacy. He took ownership to honor his father. His father used to frequent the old establishment. He also aims to continue the tribute to Troilo.
La Esquina de Aníbal Troilo is more than just a restaurant. It is a place where locals, students, and tourists gather. They come to enjoy a meal or a coffee, and soak in the atmosphere. Some visitors have noted that the background music could be more tango-focused. But there is no denying the mystique that surrounds this corner.
So, as you stand here at La Esquina de Aníbal Troilo, remember Pichuco. Remember his music. Remember the spirit of tango that permeates this space. It is a place where the past meets the present. It ensures that the legacy of Aníbal Troilo lives on.