“A street of rosebushes” echoes in the air. That is the meaning of Rue des Rosiers. Today we find ourselves on this iconic street in the heart of Paris’s Jewish quarter. It is a place where history and modernity intertwine.
The Rue des Rosiers dates back to the late 12th century. It replaced a path inside a rampart built by King Philip-Augustus. Historical texts say that rosebushes adorned this rampart. Thus came the street’s poetic name.
The current layout of the Rue des Rosiers dates back to the mid-19th century. An old cul-de-sac was opened up enhancing connectivity. This alteration improved the street’s accessibility within the neighborhood.
The Jewish Quarter has a rich history dating back to Roman times. The Jewish community faced periods of discrimination during the Middle Ages. King Charles VI expelled them in 1394. They were prohibited from residing in the French Kingdom.
Between 1881 and 1914 Jewish people sought refuge from persecution. They came from Germany, Romania, and Russia. Around 20,000 Ashkenazi Jews settled in the old Jewish Quarter. They called it the Pletzl. It means “little place” in Yiddish.
Rue des Rosiers was the site of a tragic anti-Semitic attack in 1982. The Goldenberg restaurant was attacked. The shooting resulted in 6 deaths and 22 injuries. The case remains unsolved despite investigations.
The street is known for its picturesque pedestrian ambiance. Jewish food shops, bakeries, and libraries are common. Fashion boutiques are gradually taking their place. This reflects a shift in the street’s commercial landscape.
One notable building is the Hammam Sauna Saint-Paul at number 4. It dates back to 1863. It was popular for decades. It fell out of favor as homes got their own bathrooms. Its pinkish facade still stands out.
The vocational school at 4bis once educated apprentices. It was founded in 1852. A plaque honors those who perished in concentration camps during WWII.
At number 23 you’ll see a restored 18th-century mansion. Near the corner of Rue Ferdinand-Duval is a Jewish bookshop. From 1500 to 1900 this street was called Rue des Juifs. Ancient houses line the street each telling a story.
You’ll find a modest synagogue at number 17. Locals often refer to the grander synagogue at 10 Rue Pavée. It was designed by Hector Guimard. It is also known as Synagogue Guimard. Its unique architecture is striking.
Commissioned in 1913, the synagogue served the large Jewish community. They sought asylum in Paris. The building was rebuilt after being partially destroyed during WWII. It was recognized as a Historical Monument in 1989.
The soul of the Pletzl is changing. Many Jewish businesses have been replaced by high-end shops. Some say the only Jewish thing about the street now is that shops are open on Sunday.
André Malraux protected the neighborhood from demolition in 1962. The Picasso Museum opened in the 1980s. The gay community began moving in. Still the Jewish community remained intact.
Poor housing and Yiddish were prevalent. Synagogues and kosher restaurants cropped up. The garment trade offered work to poor laborers. It was a poverty-stricken area full of local color.
Rue Ferdinand Duval was called Rue des Juifs until 1900. Rue des Ecouffes refers to Jewish moneylenders. The newer end of Rue des Rosiers has virtually no Jewish shops left.
Trendy shops are having a hard time remaining open. An Adidas shop opened after a chic boutique closed. COS occupies the former hammam. The street seems poised for change.
Falafel shops still vie to be the best. L’As du Fallafel claims it’s the best. Finkelstajn bakery/delicatessens also thrive. Lines of tourists form to enjoy chopped liver and bagels.
A kosher pizza place owner laments the neighborhood’s changes. It seems anachronistic to buy a 700-euro bag after eating an 8-euro falafel. A yeshiva and synagogues remain. They ensure active Judaism on these streets.
The closing of Goldenberg in 2007 was a sad note. The restaurant was a fixture in the neighborhood. The window with bullet holes testified to “never forget.” The plaque was removed when the restaurant closed.
Change is here to stay on Rue des Rosiers. Let’s hope the Jewish heart and soul of the place won’t be entirely squeezed out. The street stands as a testament to Paris’s diverse cultural heritage.