Imagine a forest spring bubbling with stories of ancient fishermen. That’s San Bartolo Ameyalco, a rugged traditional town high in the mountains west of Mexico City. Its name comes from Nahuatl words meaning forest spring. The Ojo del Agua still provides much of the town’s water.
San Bartolo Ameyalco’s history stretches back centuries. Some believe it was founded between 1450 and 1500. Artifacts suggest settlement much earlier. The original inhabitants were Tlaltecos. They were fishermen who settled around the Xaxalpa lagoon. This lagoon resulted from the freshwater spring.
Tradition says they came from Chimalhuacán. They were under the dominion of Texcoco. The Huey Tlatoani Chimalpopoca allowed them to stay. He asked for daily deliveries of fish.
With the Spanish arrival, San Bartolo Ameyalco became part of the Marquisate of the Valley of Oaxaca. The town was dedicated to San Bartolomé Apóstol. The church still bears his name today.
Franciscans built a chapel of tile and adobe in 1534. By 1622, the church we see today was built. A larger building was erected next to the original in 1979. Locals call the two buildings El Puente. This refers to their centrality to town life.
There’s also a fixed stage for festivities. Residents and visitors enjoy musical groups. Sinaloan bands are common. Locals consider dancing inside the church grounds disrespectful. Dancing happens in the street. That’s where everyone does it.
You can reach San Bartolo Ameyalco by bus. Buses leave from Metro Viveros or Miguel Ángel de Quevedo. A taxi from those areas is faster.
San Bartolo Ameyalco is more than an ancient town. It’s a living testament to history. It is a place where water shapes not only the landscape but also the culture. So remember the forest spring. Remember the fishermen and the music. Remember San Bartolo Ameyalco.